Miniature American Shepherd Breed Magazine - Showsight

Miniature American Shepherd Breed Magazine features information, expert articles, and stunning photos from AKC judges, breeders, and owners.

AMERICAN SHEPHERD MINIATURE

Let’s Talk Breed Education!

Page 1 of 3

Official Standard of the Miniature American Shepherd General Appearance: The Miniature American Shepherd is a small size herding dog that originated in the United States. He is slightly longer than tall with bone that is moderate and in proportion to body size and height without extremes. Movement is smooth, easy, and balanced. Exceptional agility combined with strength and stamina allows for working over a variety of terrain. This highly versatile, energetic dog makes an excellent athlete with superior intelligence and a willingness to please those to whom he is devoted. He is both a loyal companion and a biddable worker, which is evident in his watchful expression. The double coat of medium length and coarseness may be solid in color or merled, with or without white and/or tan (copper) markings. He traditionally has a docked or natural bobtail. Size, Proportion and Substance: Size - Height for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Height for bitches is 13 inches up to and including 17 inches at the top of withers. Disqualification - under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. Proportion - Measuring from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttocks and from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the ground, he is slightly longer than tall. Substance - Solidly built with moderate bone in proportion to body height and size. Structure in the dog reflects masculinity without coarseness. Bitches appear feminine without being slight of bone. Head: The head is clean-cut, dry, and in proportion to the body. Expression - Alert, attentive and intelligent. May express a reserved look and/or be watchful of strangers. Eyes - The eyes are set obliquely, almond shaped, neither protruding nor sunken and in proportion to the head. Acceptable in all coat colors, one or both eyes may be brown, blue, hazel, amber or any color combination thereof, including flecks and marbling. The eye rims of the reds and red merles have full red (liver) pigmentation. The eye rims of the blacks and blue merles have full black pigmentation. Ears - Are triangular, of moderate size, set high on the head. At full attention they break forward and over, or to the side as a rose ear. Severe Fault - Prick ears and ears that hang with no lift. Skull - The crown is flat to slightly round and may show a slight occipital protuberance. The width and the length of the crown are equal. Stop - The stop is moderate but defined. Muzzle - The muzzle is of medium width and depth and tapers gradually to a rounded tip without appearing heavy, square, snipy, or loose. Length is equal to the length of the crown. Planes - Viewed from the side, the muzzle and the top line of the crown are slightly oblique to each other, with the front of the crown on a slight angle downward toward the nose. Nose - Red merles and reds have red (liver) pigmentation on the nose leather. Blue merles and blacks have black pigmentation on the nose leather. Fully pigmented noses are preferred. Noses that are less than fully pigmented will be faulted. Severe Fault – 25 to 50 percent un-pigmented nose leather. Disqualification - Over 50 percent un-pigmented nose leather. Bite - A full complement of teeth meet in a scissor bite. Teeth broken, missing or discolored by accident are not penalized. Disqualification - Undershot or overshot bite. Neck, Topline and Body: The overall structure gives an impression of depth and strength without bulkiness. Neck - The neck is firm, clean, and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, fitting well into the shoulders. Topline - The back is firm and level from the withers to the hip joint when standing or moving. Loin - The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. Croup - The croup is moderately sloped. Body - The body is

Page 2 of 3

firm and well conditioned. Chest and Ribs - The chest is full and deep, reaching to the elbow, with well sprung ribs. Underline - The underline shows a moderate tuck-up. Tail - A docked or natural bobtail is preferred. A docked tail is straight, not to exceed three (3) inches. The undocked tail when at rest may hang in a slight curve. When excited or in motion the tail may be carried raised with the curve accentuated. Forequarters: The forequarters are well conditioned and balanced with the hindquarters. Shoulders - Shoulder blades (scapula) are long, flat, fairly close set at the withers, and well laid back. Upper arm - The upper arm (humerus) is equal in length to the shoulder blade and meets the shoulder blade at an approximate right angle. The forelegs drop straight and perpendicular to the ground. Elbow - The elbow joint is equidistant from the ground to the withers. Viewed from the side, the elbow should be directly under the withers. The elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Legs - The legs are straight and strong. The bone is oval rather than round. Pasterns - Short, thick and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet - Oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails are short and strong. The nails may be any color combination. Dewclaws should be removed. Hindquarters: Width of hindquarters is approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulders. Angulation - The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) mirrors the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm, forming an approximate right angle. Stifle - Stifles are clearly defined. Hock - The hocks are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet - Feet are oval, compact, with close knit, well arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails are short and strong. The nails may be any color combination. Rear dewclaws should be removed. Coat: Moderation is the overall impression of the coat. Hair is of medium texture, straight to wavy, weather resistant, and of medium length. The undercoat varies in quantity with variations in climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head and front of the legs. The backs of forelegs and breeches are moderately feathered. There is a moderate mane and frill, more pronounced in dogs than in bitches. Hair may be trimmed on the ears, feet, back of hocks, pasterns, and tail, otherwise he is to be shown in a natural coat. Untrimmed whiskers are preferred. Severe Fault - Non-typical coats. Color: The coloring offers variety and individuality. With no order of preference, the recognized colors are black, blue merle, red (liver) and red merle. The merle will exhibit in any amount, marbling, flecks or blotches. Undercoats may be somewhat lighter in color than the topcoat. Asymmetrical markings are not to be faulted. Tan Markings: Tan markings are not required but when present are acceptable in any or all of the following areas: around the eyes, on the feet, legs, chest, muzzle, underside of neck, face, underside of ear, underline of body, under the base of the tail and the breeches. Tan markings vary in shades from creamy beige to dark rust, with no preference. Blending with the base color or merle pattern may be present on the face, legs, feet, and breeches. White Markings: White markings are not required but when present do not dominate. Ticking may be present in white markings. White on the head does not predominate, and the eyes are fully surrounded by color and pigment. Red merles and reds have red (liver) pigmentation on the eye rims. Blue merles and blacks have black pigmentation on the eye rims. Ears fully covered by color are preferred. Severe Fault - White markings covering over 25 percent of an ear. White markings may be in any combination and are restricted to: the muzzle,

Page 3 of 3

cheeks, crown, blaze on head, the neck in a partial or full collar, chest, belly, front legs, hind legs up the hock and may extend in a thin outline of the stifle. A small amount of white extending from the underline may be visible from the side, not to exceed one inch above the elbow. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the withers at the skin. If a natural undocked tail is present, the tip of the tail may have white. Disqualifications - Other than recognized colors. White body splashes, which means any conspicuous, isolated spot or patch of white on the area between withers and tail, on back, or sides between elbows and back of hindquarters. Gait: Smooth, free, and easy; exhibiting agility of movement with a well-balanced, ground- covering stride. Fore and hind legs move straight and parallel with the center line of the body; as speed increases, the feet, both front and rear, converge toward the center line of gravity of the dog, while the back remains firm and level. When traveling at a trot the head is carried in a natural position with neck extended forward and head nearly level or slightly above the topline. He must be agile and able to turn direction or alter gait instantly. Temperament: The Miniature American Shepherd is intelligent, primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. An exceptional companion, he is versatile and easily trained, performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. Although reserved with strangers, he does not exhibit shyness. He is a resilient and persistent worker, who adjusts his demeanor and arousal appropriately to the task at hand. With his family he is protective, good natured, devoted and loyal. Disqualifications: Under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. Over 50 percent un-pigmented nose leather. Undershot or overshot bite. Other than recognized colors. White body splashes, which means any conspicuous, isolated spot or patch of white on the area between withers and tail, on back, or sides between elbows and back of hindquarters.

Effective June 27, 2012

A GUIDE TO JUDGING THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD by FRAN WITHERS

W ith your first look at a Miniature American Shepherd entering the ring, the word MODERATE should come to mind. A small-sized herding dog, he should not be overdone with bone or underdone without enough bone. He should be slightly longer than tall at about a 9:10 ratio with equal distance from withers to elbow and elbow to the ground. Structure in the dog should reflect masculinity without coarseness or extra bulk. Bitches appear feminine without being slight of bone. You can also look to the head for evidence of masculinity or femininity. The movement should be effort- less and well-balanced exhibiting a ground-covering stride although not to be confused with the type of ground

covering stride of a German Shepherd. The purpose is to use the stride as an energy saving tool in order for him to work all day at the task at hand, not to get to his destination quickly. He will converge toward the center line of grav- ity as his speed increases at the trot, while the back remains firm and level. When traveling at a trot the head is car- ried in a natural position with the neck extended forward and head nearly level or slightly above the topline. He is to be presented on a somewhat loose lead so he can display his natural movement without being strung up. You should see a smooth topline with the back firm and level from the withers to the hip joint when standing or moving. The head is clean-cut, dry and in proportion to the body. Viewed from the side, the muzzle and the top line of

the crown are slightly oblique to each other, with the front of the crown on a slight angle downward toward the nose. The male should have a stronger head than the female, demonstrating some distinction between a male and female head so when you look at them you can easily tell what gender they are. The eyes must be almond in shape. We do not want round or bulging eyes. Height for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Height for bitches is 13 inches up to and including 17 inches at the top of withers. The minimum heights do not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. When in doubt please wicket. We would rather you measure to be sure of any questionable height rather than not put a dog up due to it. This breed is to be judged on the table.

“YOU SHOULD SEE A SMOOTH TOPLINE WITH THE BACK FIRM AND LEVEL FROM THE WITHERS TO THE HIP JOINT WHEN STANDING OR MOVING.”

Substance: Solidly built with moderate bone; males - masculinity without coarseness; bitches - feminine without slight of bone.

General Appearance: Well balanced; slightly longer than tall; medium size and bone without extreme; versatile and agile; attentive, biddable and loyal; coat moderate length; coloring offers variety and individuality; traditional docked or natural bob tail

182 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , A UGUST 2015

Ears: acceptable styles. Illustrations courtesy of Vicky Mistretta.

Presented naturally

“MODERATION IS THE OVERALL IMPRESSION OF THE COAT.”

Do not take the “Miniature” in our name to mean that they must be quite small or close to toy size. As you can see the males can be up to 18 inches. This can be a challenge to compare this wide of a range in the ring. Try to judge each on their own merit rather than com- paring them to each other. Can the 14 inch dog move with a stride described in the standard with respect to his size? One of the problems we run across in downsizing is lack of loin, this in turn drastically reduces the ability to reach up underneath themselves and drive from behind. If the smaller dog has suf- ficient loin and angulation, therefore drive and has a good front and lay back of shoulder to help ensure reach then he should mirror a larger dog with the same assets when moving. They should cover ground correctly and at the speed that best suits that particular dog. We don’t want the smaller dogs rac- ing around the ring trying to compete with the speed of the larger dogs who can cover more linear feet in a shorter amount of time. Moderation is the overall impres- sion of the coat. Hair is of medium texture, from straight to wavy and of medium length. Hair may be trimmed on the ears, feet, back of hocks, pas- terns and tail, otherwise he is to be shown in a natural coat. Untrimmed

whiskers are preferred. We do not want a sculpted presentation. The Miniature American Shepherd comes in 4 colors Blue Merle, Red Mer- le, Black Tri and Red Tri with or with- out white and or tan points. A solid colored dog is just as acceptable as a flashy tri colored dog. The emphasis should always be on the structure and movement since color does not get the job done. Some merleing patterns can easily deceive the eye, a critique of the bone structure without considering the color can be challenging. As you assess a Miniature American Shepherd, the chest should be full and deep, reaching to the elbow, with well sprung ribs and the underline shows a moderate tuck-up. The shoulder blades (scapula) are long, flat, fairly close set at the withers and well laid back. The hocks are short, approximately ⅓ the total height of the dog. Perpen- dicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear at the stand. The loin should be strong and broad when viewed from the top and the croup is moderately sloped. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) should mirror the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm.

A docked tail is, not to exceed three (3) inches. The undocked tail when at rest may hang in a slight curve. When excited or in motion the tail may be car- ried raised with the curve accentuated. A docked tail is preferred but a full tail is accepted. This breed is extremely devoted to their owners/handlers and it is reflect- ed in their focus towards them. Do not expect him to look at you with a little cock of the head if you make some kind of noise to get a reaction from him. He will likely keep focused on his handler. DISQUALIFICATIONS • Under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. • Over 50% un-pigmented nose leather. • Undershot or overshot bite. • Other than recognized colors. White body splashes, which means any conspicuous, isolated spot or patch of white on the area between withers and tail, on back, or sides between elbows and back of hindquarters. For more information please go to www.namascusa.com/judges.php where you will find a breed Power- Point. For the Breed Standard, go to www.namascusa.com/standard.php

184 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , A UGUST 2015

YOU DO

WHA-A-AT?

BY MARLA VANWILLIGAN

M y husband, Larry, and I get the reaction of “You Do What?” from people who ask us what we are doing in our retirement. “We do competitive herding. You know, dogs moving sheep.” Little did we know the world we were getting into! Six and a half years ago, while doing disc dog with our dogs, we dis- covered Herding Instinct Testing at a Wags for Wishes event in Arizona. Our Miniature American Shepherds, Jack and Mattie, passed their herding instinct test that day which brought the end of disc dog activities and the beginning of our sheep herding adventures. It opened a whole new world to us. We traveled around the United States meeting wonderful people on our travels. Not only competing in AKC herding events, we also have competed in the Ameri- can Herding Breed Association (AHBA) and Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA) herding events. After reaching the intermediate level in AKC and AHBA, and Started Sheep in ASCA, Jack retired from herding. I don’t think Jack really liked herding, but with his love for me, he worked hard to please us. We always thought that if we could find some way to hang Frisbees on the sheep that he would love it! Mattie went on to achieve an Advanced title on Course A sheep in AKC, Intermediate B course, and Started Ducks. In AHBA, she has obtained intermediate titles in Herding Trial Dog and Herding Ranch Dog. In ASCA, she has Started Sheep and Ducks. We are working toward our herding championship in AKC. Mattie has earned two legs in AKC started cattle. The little blue dog doesn’t have a whole lot of power against those cows because of her smaller size, but she found her bark to help move them. One day we will get that last leg and our title! We are looking forward to obtain- ing that last leg and our Championship Title.

Mattie has even competed in the Novice level at some United States Border Collie Handler Association trials. We don’t always do well, but every journey to the post is an adventure and learning experience. Mattie and I found our trainer, Terry Parish, to be an invaluable source for training and education. It’s people like her who help us along the way. She is a very successful Border Collie handler and breeder. She trains all breeds and has helped many obtain their championships on their dogs. Another invaluable support in this journey is my husband, Larry. He lets me train his dog Mattie that, at times, is the other woman in our marriage!

SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, MAY 2022 | 221

THE BACK STORY

MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERDS

BY KAREN KELLER-ROSS PRESIDENT, MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD CLUB OF THE USA; TIMELESS MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERDS

A KC approved the split of the Austra- lian Shepherd by phenotype into two breeds in May of 2011, now known as the Australian Shepherd and the Miniature American Shepherd. The phenotype being size. In May of 2011, the American Kennel Club also approved MASCUSA as the parent breed club to represent the Miniature American Shepherd. The model that was used to split the Austra- lian Shepherd breed was the Norfolk and Nor- wich Terrier. The phenotype that split these Ter- riers into two breeds was their ear set. Initially, AKC recognized these two breeds as one breed, the Norwich Terrier, until 1979, when division by ear carriage became official. The drop ears are now recognized as the Norfolk, while the prick ears remain Norwich in AKC. Prior to AKC recognition, the Miniature American Shepherds were known as Miniature Australian Shepherds, North American Shep- herds, or Mini Aussies. MASCUSA, the AKC parent breed club, has been around since 1990 with the sole purpose to promote and advance the Australian Shepherds smaller than the preferred height of 18 inches. MASCUSA was originally formed in 1990 and incorporated in 1993. Per Article II of our first bylaws, MASCUSA’s objectives and purpose was to aid and encourage the breeding and raising of pure- bred Miniature Australian Shepherds as a small mirror-image of the Australian Shepherd dog, more specifically defined in our breed standard. OFFICIAL AKC HISTORY OF THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California during the late 1960s with the breeding of small, unregistered dogs that were thought to be Australian Shepherds. These dogs were bred with a goal of maintaining their small size, active character and intelligence. The breed was first registered with the National Stock Dog Registry in 1980 and was originally called the Miniature Australian Shep- herd. By the early 1990s, they had attained nationwide popularity. Several clubs pro- moted these small dogs, as they were registered

Left: Australian Shepherd, Right: Miniature American Shephard

“PRIOR TO AKC RECOGNITION, THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERDS WERE KNOWN AS MINIATURE AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERDS, NORTH AMERICAN SHEPHERDS, OR MINI AUSSIES.”

224 | SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, MAY 2022

THE BACK STORY: MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERDS

Standards are vital in order to define breeds. “”

Rebranded by size, the Miniature American Shepherd is holding its own in show rings, performance events, and in the eyes of an ever-growing fan base.

AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD SIZE The Australian Shepherd’s breed standard, including size, can be viewed at www.australianshepherds.org/about-aussies/ breed-standard . “Size: The preferred height for males is 20-23 inches, females 18-21 inches. Quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of size.” MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD SIZE The Miniature Australian Shepherd’s breed standard can be viewed at mascusa.org/breed/standard.html . “Size: Height for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Height for bitches is 13 inches up to and including 17 inches at the top of withers. Disqualification: under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age.” UPHOLDING THE STANDARD The responsibility to uphold the Breed Standard as well as agreements in Breed Division first rests on the breeders. Breeders should know the breed standard and history of the breed and understand the disqualifications of the breed they advance in the sport of dogs. Dogs with disqualifications should not be in the breed ring, but may, at the discretion of the breeder, continue to be used in breeding programs. The last line of defense to uphold the breed standard falls on the judge if exhibitors are too afraid to call for a wicket. Judges must not consider dogs over or under the breed standard sizes as they would then violate a member- voted Breed Standard, and in our case, a Breed Division Agreement. MASCUSA’s breed standard is clearly stated, defined, and measurable with no room for interpretation regarding size.

and shown with various rare-breed organizations. The first parent breed club and registry, MASCUSA, was formed in 1990 and incorporated in 1993. The breed entered the AKC Foundation Stock Service as the Miniature American Shepherd in May 2011. The Miniature American Shepherd Club of the USA (MASCUSA) is the designated national par- ent club of the American Kennel Club. The breed has been used for herding smaller stock such as sheep and goats, although they have the heart to tackle larger stock as well. Their small size was looked upon with favor, as they could more easily double as a household pet. They became especially popular with equestrians traveling to horse shows, as their intelligence, loyalty, and size made them an excellent travel companion. In this way their popularity spread across the country. Today, the Miniature American Shepherd is estab- lished across the US and internationally. It is a breed with a unique identity—an eye catching, versatile little Herding dog, equally at home on a ranch or in the city. The Miniature American Shepherd is a Herding dog and has been designated to the Herding Group in the American Kennel Club. (cour- tesy of www.mascusa.org ) BREED STANDARDS & BREED DIVISION AGREEMENTS Breed Standards are vital in order to define breeds. MASCUSA has a breed standard that was voted and approved by its membership; it is in line with our long history and objectives, and has been approved by the Board of Directors of American Kennel Club. Breed Division Agreement. Although the Australian Shepherd has a preferred size, the Miniature American Shepherd was split off of the Aus- tralian Shepherd with very specific requirements, one of which was the allowance of Australian Shepherds to move from the Australian Shep- herd stud book over to the Miniature American Shepherds stud book for a period of time. The Breed Division Agreement was very clear to have a disqualification in the breed standard for Miniature American Shepherds over 17 inches tall at the shoulder for females and over 18 inches tall at the shoulder for males.

228 | SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, MAY 2022

Miniature American Shep herd

BACKSTORY OF THE BREED

BY KAREN KELLER-ROSS

I n May of 2011, the American Kennel Club approved the split of the Australian Shepherd by phenotype (the phenotype being size) into two breeds now known as the Australian Shepherd and the Miniature American Shepherd. In May of 2011, the AKC also approved MAS- CUSA as the Parent Club to represent the Miniature American Shepherd. The model that was used to split the Australian Shepherd breed was the Norfolk and Norwich Terrier. The phenotype that split these Terriers into two breeds was their ear set. Initially, AKC recognized these two breeds as one breed (the Norwich Terrier) until 1979, when division by ear carriage became official. The drop ears are now recognized as the Norfolk, whereas the prick ears remain Norwich in AKC. Prior to AKC recognition, the Miniature American Shepherds were known as Miniature Australian Shepherds, North American Shepherds or Mini Aus- sies. MASCUSA, the AKC Parent Club, has been around since 1990 with the sole purpose to promote and advance those Australian Shepherds [that are] smaller than the preferred height of 18 inches. MASCUSA was originally formed in 1990 and incorporated in 1993. Per Article II of our first Bylaws, MASCUSA’s objectives and purpose was to aid and encourage the breeding and raising of purebred Miniature Australian Shepherds as a smaller mirror-image of the Australian Shepherd dog; more specifically defined in our breed standard.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR KAREN KELLER-ROSS • MASCUSA Board Member from 1998-2002 • MASCUSA President 2002-2020 • Current Vice-President of MASCUSA • AKC Breeder of Merit • Approved MAS Presenter (Judges Education) and Mentor • First MASCA HOF Kennel • TIMELESS Kennel

OFFICIAL AKC HISTORY OF THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California during the late 1960’s with the breeding of small, unregistered dogs that were thought to be Australian Shepherds. These dogs were bred with a goal of maintaining their small size, active character, and intelligence. The breed was first registered with the National Stock Dog Registry in 1980 and was originally called the Miniature Australian Shep- herd. By the early 1990’s, they had attained nationwide popularity. Several clubs promoted these small dogs, as they were registered and shown with various rare breed organizations. The first parent club and registry, MASCUSA, was formed in 1990 and incorporated in 1993. The breed entered the AKC Foundation Stock Service as the Miniature American Shepherd in May 2011. The Miniature American Shepherd Club of the USA (MASCUSA) is the designated national parent club of the American Kennel Club. The breed has been used for herding smaller stock such as sheep and goats, although they have the heart to tackle larger stock as well. Their small size was looked upon with favor, as they could more easily double as a household pet. They became especially popular with equestrians traveling to horse shows, as their intelligence, loyalty, and size made them an excellent travel companion. In this way, their popularity spread across the country. Today, the Miniature American Shepherd is established across the US and internationally. It is a breed with a unique identity—an eye-catching, versatile little herding dog, equally at home on a ranch or in the city. The Miniature American Shepherd is a herding dog and has been designated to the Herding Group in the American Kennel Club. www.mascusa.org

196 | SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, JANUARY 2021

MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD: BACKSTORY OF THE BREED

BREED STANDARDS AND BREED DIVISION AGREEMENTS BREED STANDARDS Breed Standards are vital in order to define breeds. MASCUSA has a Breed Standard that was voted and approved by its membership, is in line with our long history and objectives, and has been approved by the Board of Directors of the American Kennel Club. BREED DIVISION AGREEMENT Although the Australian Shepherd has a pre- ferred size, the Miniature American Shepherd was split-off from the Australian Shepherd with very specific requirements. One of these was the allow- ance of Australian Shepherds to move from the Australian Shepherd stud book over to the Min- iature American Shepherds stud book for a period of time. The Breed Division Agreement was very clear; to have a Disqualification in the Breed Standard for Miniature American Shepherds over 17 inches tall at the shoulder for females and over 18 inches tall at the shoulder for males. AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD SIZE: http://www.australianshepherds.org/about-aus- sies/breed-standard Size: The preferred height for males is 20 to 23 inches, females 18 to 21 inches. Quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of size. MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD SIZE: http://mascusa.org/breed/standard.html Size: Height for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Height for bitches is 13 inches up to and includ- ing 17 inches at the top of withers. Disqualifi- cation —under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. The responsibility to uphold the Breed Stan- dard as well as the agreements of Breed Division first rests with the Breeders . Breeders should know the Breed Standard and History of the breed, and understand the disqualifications of the breed that they are advancing in the Sport of Dogs. Dogs with disqualifications should not be in the breed ring, but may (at the discretion of the breeder) continue to be used in breeding programs. The last line of defense to uphold the Breed Standard falls on the Judge —if exhibitors are too afraid to call for a wicket. Judges must not consider dogs over or under the Breed Standard sizes, as they would then violate a member-voted Breed Standard and, in our case, a Breed Divi- sion Agreement. MASCUSA’s Breed Standard is clearly stated, defined, and measurable, with no room for interpretation regarding size.

MAS on left: GCHG BISS Timeless Slice Of Life, “Chloe” Aussie on right: BISS GCHS CH Empyreans Blurred Lines At Copperridge RN CGCA TKN, “Marcus”

Judges must not consider dogs over or under the Breed Standard sizes, as they would then violate a member-voted Breed Standard and, in our case, a Breed Division Agreement. MASCUSA’s Breed Standard is clearly stated, defined, and measurable, with no room for interpretation regarding size. ATTENTION JUDGES

204 | SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, JANUARY 2021

The

Miniature American Shepherd

by FRAN WITHERS

T he Miniature American Shep- herd was developed by breeding smaller Australian Shepherds in order to produce a downsized version of the breed. It takes many decades to downsize a breed properly and retain all the original qualities in shape and form. Throughout the process, especially early on, most planned and well researched crosses will be just one step in the right direction. If the goal of the breeder is quality over size, which is of utmost importance, it takes many generations to cement the body type and proportions needed. Being an AKC Breeder Judge, the Min- iature American Shepherd Club’s Judges Education Coordinator, approved presenter of educational seminars as well as ringside and long term mentor of judges looking to be approved to judge our breed, I am often asked what are the problems we face as a breed, what do we need to improve upon? That is a difficult question as it is changing year by year. I have been breeding Mini American Shepherds for 25 years and still as a breed we continue to work on consistency in shape and form. Some crosses will produce smaller size but the price you pay may be short upper arms and lack of loin since all body parts do not downsize equally. Others will produce shorter legs on an otherwise comparatively larger body resulting in a look of dwarfism. Of course this is not what we are looking for in our breed.

280 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , M AY 2019

The breed standard states that their upper arms (humerus) is equal in length to the shoulder blade. The loin—strong and broad when viewed from the top. They are equidistant in height, measuring 50% from ground to elbow and 50% from elbow to the withers. Other problem areas are length of body vs. height, which when measuring from the point of the shoulder blade to the point of the buttocks and from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the ground should be slightly longer than tall. Meaning about a 9-10 ratio. Downsizing can often result in a boxy or cobby body type which is usually due to lack of loin. I like to see 2/3 rib cage to 1/3 loin. So, each generation requires an honest evaluation of both the dam and sire. Know what you need to improve upon and breed accordingly. You must have both short and long term goals clearly established in your breeding program. Always comparing your plan to the Breed Standard. The short term goals are what you expect to get out of any specific cross. Long term goals include how you expect to cement a body type and temperament as close to the Breed Standard as possible.

Even though any given breeding program has used only Aus- tralian Shepherd bloodlines, they can still experience toy features during the downsizing process. Domed skulls, round and or protruding eyes, prick ears and slight bone are all things to be strongly avoided. We are looking for length of muzzle that is equal to the length and width of the crown, almond shaped eyes, neither protruding nor sunken and the ears at full attention should break forward and over or to the side as a rose ear. It is important to note that this breed is to be shown in a natural presentation leaving whiskers on and minimal scissoring. We do not want our breed to be shown sculpted. A good breeder should start to see that they are more consistently producing males that are between 14 and 18 inches and bitches between 13 and 17 inches at the top of the withers with moderate bone in proportion to body height and size. They should have a full and deep chest reaching the elbow with well sprung ribs. Possessing compact feet with well arched toes. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) should mirror the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm. They need short hocks, (short hocks being 1/3 of the total height) and acceptable coat colors, along with all of the afore mentioned qualities. That is when you know you have achieved a correct and solid breeding program.

282 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , M AY 2019

HOW TO CHOOSE & PREPARE A MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD FOR THE SHOW RING by FRAN WITHERS Breed Standard & Education Committee Chair

T he process through which I choose and train a show pros- pect starts at birth. I do a great deal of desensitization, social- ization, and preparatory work for all of my puppies so that the ones that turn out to be show/breed quality at 8 weeks old already have the benefit of this work and the ones that are going to companion homes also have the best upbringing they can possibly have to be a treasured family member. From the day they are born I hold them upright, in the air, on their backs, and then close to me. It may be a little uncomfortable for them at first, but it is a great exercise for them to be handled and comforted by a per- son. Before long, they just take the exercises in stride and have total confidence in me. Th ey equate my touch with a comforting sensation since they are cuddled at the end. I touch their ears, play with their paws with a cotton swab, put them on a cool towel one at a time for 30 seconds and then cuddle them again. Th ese exercises teach them that they can recover easily from strange or di ff erent sensations and that humans are a good source of comfort. When they are 5-6 weeks old, I start taking them one at a time into an unfamil- iar area to watch TV and hang out with me. I watch to see how they react to new stimuli on their own with no litter mates to influence their behavior. Is this puppy inquisitive running around sni ffi ng or is he low to the ground and hesitant? I turn the volume up when there is clapping and laughing and then note if he runs up to the TV wanting to know where that noise is coming from or if he runs the other way to hide. In the show ring, a dog should become invigorated with the clapping and attention of the spectators. If he gets frightened, he will need to recover quickly relying on his owner’s support. Th ese basic

“SINCE HE WAS 7 WEEKS OLD, I HAVE BEEN TEACHING HIM TO STACK...”

exercises should help a dog learn to seek out their owner for a quick dose of self- confidence and an easy recovery. At 6 weeks I start crate training, slowly and with a littermate at first. His crate should represent a den, not a jail. I ship puppies all over the world and I want them to be happy and confident when they reach their destination. For his safety, a show dog spends a lot of time crated while at shows and traveling, so he should see a crate as a positive place—a den to call his own. At 8 weeks old I do my puppy puzzle and temperament testing. I check how well a puppy conforms to the breed standard, if he is overwhelmed in a show-like atmo-

sphere, if he recover quickly from stress, and if he is forgiving. All of these qualities can be detected through these tests. If you are not raising the litter, do your homework to find a good breeder that incorporates all of these things in their puppy raising. So, I have the puppy that is best suit- ed for the show ring. He conforms to the breed standard quite nicely, I have prepared him well. Now, we start show training. Since he was 7 weeks old, I have been teaching him to stack on tables and flat-sided stilts that have good gripping surface and are secured with magnets on the bottom, so they won’t move. Th ey are a great tool to teach a dog to place their

258 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015

“OUR FIRST SHOW AT 6 MONTHS OF AGE IS JUST FOR FUN. I DO NOT EXPECT

ANYTHING FROM HIM WHICH ELIMINATES PRESSURE.”

legs where they need to be creating muscle memory. At first he will stand there only for a short time, but as he grows older, I will increase the time. All of my dogs like this exercise, they can’t wait to get on the stilts because they know they get treats there. Th is is the beginning of creating a free stack which will help you greatly in the ring. As you return from your down and back to the judge, your dog should be able to stop with all 4 legs placed properly standing there proudly. Also, anytime you send them out on the lead ahead of you a few feet and then call them back to you, they should be able to walk directly in front of you and free stack. Creating and maintaining muscle memory at an early age is crucial for training the free stack. As soon as the puppy has finished his series of shots at about 12 weeks old, I take him weekly to my local kennel club classes. Here he will learn to use all the tools he has so far. He will stay in his crate quietly when it is not his turn to play. He learns about all the noises in a big building with the barking of the dogs, the laughing and talking of many people, loud banging doors slamming, and crates hitting the ground. He also experiences being on the table with strangers going over him. Th ese experiences help him gain confidence in a dog show type environment. While he watches me having fun with other dogs, his desire to be the one to work with me increases, but at this age, I keep training

sessions short and fun. In addition, we go on trips just for fun, visiting stores that allow dogs, parks, going for walks where there are cars or in small downtown shop- ping areas where we can window shop and greet people. We attend matches so he can gain more confidence and experience. Our first show at 6 months of age is just for fun. I do not expect anything from him which eliminates pressure. We walk all over the grounds, do a little shop- ping with the vendors and visit friends. Now that he is in a real show situation, all that training can seem fruitless for the weekend. He may not want to focus because of all the new things happening around him and may forget what he is supposed to be doing all together. Th at’s okay, he will remember and do better next time if I don’t make a big deal out of it now. Remember, the Miniature American Shepherd is a herding breed and are sup- posed to be aware of their environment, so he needs time to acclimate. In the meantime I continue to train weekly at the club as well as at home. By now he has maintained pretty good muscle memory so his free stack is consistent and looks awesome. Th at always helps to impress the judges. Since he was a puppy, he has been bathed and blown dried, had his tail, ears and feet trimmed and his nails clipped on regularly. He likes it because I have taken my time through every process.

With dogs patience and treats are the key to progress. Now, doing these at the show site does not add stress to the show atmo- sphere. For the MAS we leave the whis- kers on and do not sculpt the coat to get a more natural presentation. Th e MAS is a table breed, so I have had many people go over him on a table over the past months. When I remove him from the table, my back is to the judge so I can quickly fix any out of place hair and set his lead all the way up behind his ears. Th is way I will not have a sloppy transition from the table to the start of the down and back. I do not need speed on my down and back allowing my dog what I want is to converge properly. On my go around, I want to show the foot timing, reach and drive that my dog possesses. I will have him travel on a somewhat loose lead so he can move in a natural way. When I have a dog that is at the small end of the height range of 14-18 inches for dogs and 13-17 inches for bitch- es, I will move him in a way that best suits his size, not try to keep up with the larger dogs or allowing more room if behind a smaller dog. Th e MAS gait is balanced and conserves energy so the dog can work all day, so he should not race around the ring. Th e MAS is a wonderful, devoted breed that wants to please their people. Given patience, time, and training, they learn quickly and are engaging. With training, they work well as a team with their human counterparts at any task.

S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015 • 259

THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD AS A SHOW DOG by SUE RITTER

T he Miniature American Shep- herd makes an impressive Show Dog. Th e breed standard is clear. Finding a balanced, well- put-together dog or bitch that is close to the Miniature American Breed Standard to exhibit in the conformation ring is an obvious, but very important task. How- ever, turning that beautifully built, super moving Mini into a brilliant show dog takes care and work. A show prospect must be exposed to many new people and show experiences in the formative months prior to show age. Th e special trust they have with their owners must be expanded to all humans, especially those who may handle or examine them. Sure, it takes time for the young dog to mature, to develop balance

with all those parts growing at di ff erent rates, and to grow a nice adult coat, but the comfort and safety they feel at home in known situations must be extended to many places. Th ese super intelligent herding dogs, capable of figuring out how to move mul- tiple animals 10 to 100 times their size in unity, quickly and safely, are predisposed to think first in new situations. However, the more they are exposed to new experi- ences and new people, the quicker they adapt. So with bait training, dog classes, fun days at dog shows, walking around flea markets, asking people to go over your dog, and participating in conformation events prior to regular shows, these won- derful dogs quickly learn that life as a show dog is fun and full of rewards!

“A SHOW PROSPECT MUST BE EXPOSED TO MANY NEW PEOPLE AND SHOW EXPERIENCES...”

266 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015

THE MINIATURE AMERICAN SHEPHERD

by MASCUSA BREED STANDARD EVALUATION & EDUCATION COMMITTEE

A lthough new in its breed name, the Miniature Ameri- can Shepherd is no stranger across this Nation as well as into Canada and Europe. It was formerly known as the Miniature Australian Shep- herd and also called the North American Shepherd. In 1990, MASCUSA, Min- iature Australian Shepherd Club of the USA, was formed as the parent club to preserve, promote and protect this lovely breed, eventually bringing them into the fold of the American Kennel Club. Since we were entering into AKC as a new breed, what better time to give our dogs an honest name. Th e club

membership as a whole selected the name Miniature American Shepherd for a breed that truly originated in the United States. So, often you will see the phrase, “Proud to be an American” used to express the pride we have in the accomplishments of this breed. Th e first impression is that of a small sized herding dog that is slightly longer than tall. Th e word moderate seems to be a key word no matter what individual piece of the dog is being evaluated. Our dogs need to have strength and stamina to do their jobs but the word strength is never to be confused with a bulky, heavy muscled body style. Th is highly versatile, energetic

dog makes an excellent athlete. He has superior intelligence and a willingness to please those to whom he is devoted. Th e size range for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Bitches are slightly smaller at 13 inches up to and including 17 inches. Although there is a consider- able variance between the bottom and top measurements, the prime consider- ation should be given to the exhibit that most closely meets the breed standard. Th ere is NO preference in size within the allowed range. Th e breed is neither exaggerated nor extreme in any way, exhibiting

268 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015

Ears: acceptable styles. Illustrations courtesy of Vicky Mistretta.

moderate bone proportionate to their size. Th e structure of a male reflects masculin- ity without coarseness. Th e females will appear feminine without being slight of bone. Th ickness of coat goes a long way in adding to or detracting from the amount of bone/substance that an animal appears to have. It is what is under the hair that should carry the most weight. Moderation is the overall impression of the coat. Hair is of a medium texture, may be straight to wavy, weather resistant and of medium length. Again, the amount of undercoat will vary depending on the seasons and the climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head and front of the legs. Th e backs of forelegs and breeches are moderately feathered. Th ere is a moderate mane and frill more pronounced in dogs than bitches. Keeping the breed “natural” is a priority, therefore, care was taken to include in the standard that hair may be trimmed only on the ears, feet, back of hocks, pasterns and tail. Also, untrimmed whiskers are preferred. Th e head is clean-cut, dry and in pro- portion to the body. Th e eyes are almond shaped, set obliquely, neither protrud- ing nor sunken and in proportion to the head. Eye colors come in a wide range and may have di ff erent color eyes on the same dog. Brown, blue, hazel, amber, including flecks and marbling are acceptable in all

coat colors. Eye rims and nose leather cor- responds to the base color, i.e., Black base color has black pigmentation and red base color has liver pigmentation. Ears are triangular, moderate size, set high on the head and may break for- ward and over or to the side as a rose ear. Th ere is no preference to style, however,

prick ears or ears hanging with no lift is a severe fault. Th e width and length of the crown are equal. Th e length of the muzzle is equal to the length of the crown. When viewed from the side, the muzzle and top line of the crown are slightly oblique to each oth- er with the front of the crown on a slight

“EYE COLORS COME IN A WIDE RANGE AND MAY HAVE DIFFERENT COLOR EYES ON THE SAME DOG.”

272 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015

“A GREAT DEAL OF IMPORTANCE HAS BEEN GIVEN TO THE DESCRIPTION OF THE HEAD, NOT FOR AESTHETICS BUT FOR THE SAFETY AND FUNCTION OF THE DOGS STILL DOING THE JOB THEY WERE BRED TO DO.“

angle downward toward the nose. Th ere is a moderate but defined stop. Th e teeth meet in a scissor bite but bro- ken, missing or discolored by accident are not penalized. A great deal of importance has been given to the description of the head, not for aesthetics but for the safety and func- tion of the dogs still doing the job they were bred to do. Bulging eyes can be sub- ject to injury while working stock. Eyes too small could impair vision. Proper muzzle length is necessary in order to grip stock. Th e slightly oblique planes would help to allow a kick to glance o ff the head. Dogs in the field are subject to sunburn without proper pigmentation on the nose

and around the eyes. Lack of color on the nose should be faulted to the extent of deviation up to 50% at which time it becomes a disqualification. Th e Miniature American Shepherd is examined on the table. Th e overall struc- ture should give the impression of depth and strength without bulkiness. Th e loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. Th e chest is full and deep, reaching to the elbow, with only a moderate tuck-up. As a breed with height disqualifications, it is important that we maintain balance with the elbow joint being equidistant from the ground to the withers. Measur- ing from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttocks and from the highest

13 inch & 17 inch. Both within size range.

274 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , J UNE 2015

Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32

showsightmagazine.com

Powered by