Judging the CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER By Betsy Horn Humer Eastern Waters’ Kennel F irst impressions are impor- tant. When a class of Chesa- peake Bay Retrievers enter the ring, the first thing I look at is the outline and proportions. From the side, out curl, and no higher than 2:00-3:00 p.m. on a clock(!). A scissors bite is preferred, but a level bite is acceptable. Overshot and undershot bites are a disqualification.
By now you have seen the dog from the side and will have the class gait around the ring. As you watch the dogs gait, you are looking for balance and reach and drive — especially a strong rear so that the dog can perform as a good swimming dog. He should be able to move with agility and strength. He should be strong and well-muscled but not coarse. He should demonstrate power and have a good return stroke as the legs come together under the body. As you approach the dog from the front, quickly ascertain that the eyes are of “yel- lowish or amber hue”. Amber includes gold, orange and light brownish shades. Many breeders prefer that the eyes blend with the coat because the appearance results in more camouflage in hunting situations. Eye color is a distinctive feature of the breed. Eyes are to be medium large. It is accepted by most breeders that eye shape is oval and not round. Th e oval shape o ff ers more protection from elements in the field. Ears are small and set up high on the head above eye level to keep them out of the water when swimming. Th ey are to hang loose. Th e skull is broad and round with jaws capable of carrying large birds. Th e muzzle is tapered, but not sharp. It is not snipey, but it is also not short. Length is needed to pick up large water- fowl and other birds when hunting. Lips are not pendulous with loose flews, but should be trim so that water does not easily flow into the dog’s mouth when working in the water. Loose flews could also retain feathers.
Now you are ready to examine the dog’s coat, which is a double coat. You see and touch the coat—it should be short, dense and thick. Th e outercoat should be harsh and should not be longer than 1 ½ inches. Th e coat should feel as if there is a “spring” to it and should be examined closely for the undercoat which is soft and wooly. Th e coat should fit the dog like a jacket and should be presented naturally. It should not be back- brushed and pu ff ed up. Th e harsh outercoat and the dense undercoat will protect the swimming dog but not if it is blow-dried to stand up away from the dog’s body. Th e col- ors are varied and may be any shade of brown from light brown to dark brown, all shades of deadgrass (light blonde to straw-colored) and sedge (reddish-tones). Th ere are many shades of deadgrass which may result in striping, masking or hound markings. A recessive gene may result in a diluted brown referred to as “ash”. “Any color of brown, sedge or deadgrass is acceptable, self- colored being preferred. A self-colored dog is one with shades of the colors listed. White is permissible as “a white spot on the breast, bel- ly, toes or back of feet (immediately above the large pad)… the smaller the spot the better, solid colored preferred.” Th e term “solid-col- ored” means—without white. A disqualifica- tion applies to white markings located in plac- es other than those mentioned above. Th e coat should be wavy —not straight or curly. Th ere are types of coats with di ff erent amounts of
the head planes should be parallel and the length of muzzle should be the same length as the backskull. (Although it is not specified in the breed standard, it is accepted by most judges and breeders that head planes should be parallel.) Th e neck should be close to the same length as the head from nose to occiput. As you move further along the dog, the elbow should be underneath the shoulder, displaying good layback. Th e shoulder and upper arm should balance each other and be the same length. Th ere should be full lib- erty of movement. Th e back should be short and well-coupled and the body is of medium length, not cobby. Th e topline is unique when comparing it to other retriever breeds. Th e hindquar- ters may be a “trifle higher” than the shoul- ders. Th is topline is found in the majority of the breed, although it may also be level. Th e topline should not be so extreme that it appears as sway-backed. As you approach the flanks, the underline shows a hollow- ness which may be termed “tuck-up”. Con- tinuing to the hindquarters, legs should be of medium length demonstrating power as they move. Th ere should be well-angulated stifles to match the forequarters. Front and rear legs should be straight when viewed from the front and rear. Ideally, the tail should be carried so that it is straight, with-
192 • S HOW S IGHT M AGAZINE , M ARCH 2014
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