Yorkshire Terrier Breed Magazine - Showsight


Let’s Talk Breed Education!


yorkshire terrier

(A version of this article originally appeared in the YTCA Heritage, 1970 through 1983, which was published and copyrighted by the YTCA in 1985.)


same goes for moving with the group. DO NOT run up anyone’s rear and do not let it happen to you. Check the judging proce- dure and the gaiting pattern being used, and in which direction to face the dog on the table. Position your dog as the judge has indicated, check his topline, straighten the coat, if necessary, and use your bait to have the dog ready in his best pose for the judge’s first impression. On the ground, allow enough room between yourself and the other exhibitors to work. Pose your dog, straighten his coat, and bait him to work his ears. Draw attention to your dog’s good points and hide the bad. By this I mean that if he has a good topline but an excellent head, then a 45-degree angle toward the judge will help a lot to draw attention away from the topline. Good neck and legs can be accentuated by subtle hand gestures. The handler’s body posture plays an important part in the ring and is something that you will have to learn to “play by ear,” according to what you “read” from the judge’s body language. For instance, a judge with an aggressive body pose is going to be sub- consciously turned off by you if your body language is also aggres- sive. Similarly, a passive pose is going to turn off the passive-type judge. So act accordingly. Good luck in the ring, and remember to be a good sport. WHEN SETTING UP YOUR DOG, STAY IN LINE. THERE IS NOTHING MORE NOVICE-LOOKING OR ANNOYING TO A JUDGE THAN AN EXHIBITOR UPSTAGING

T he correct presentation of our breed is of utmost importance. Not only the immaculate groom- ing of dog and handler, but also the ring training and presentation of both are crucial. This article gives some of my thoughts on the subject, which might be helpful to you.

THE DAY BEFORE THE SHOW: At home, we have to take our dog(s) out of oil-shampoo, condition and dry. I always dry from the part down the back first, then the sides and feet, leav- ing head fall, face, and front of neck until last. Wrap, if it is a dog you usually wrap. Next, check the tack box, making sure you have everything you will need: lead, brush, comb, spray bottle, bows, towels, bait, etc. Prepare the dog crate. CLOTHES – COLORS AND STYLE: Carefully select your own wardrobe. Remember, this is a dog show, not a cocktail party. (That’s later!) Much thought should be given to this subject. Do not try to out-dress the judge. If he or she is a conservative dresser, you may turn him or her off with too flamboyant an outfit. “Slight- ly understate, rather than overstate,” is the rule here. Shoes MUST be comfortable and supportive. DAY OF THE SHOW: Leave the house or motel in time to arrive at the showgrounds two hours prior to your scheduled ring time. Allow an hour per dog for grooming. You should park the car and set up as close to the ring as possible. Do allow yourself plenty of time. Most judges work at the rate of two minutes per dog, some allow three minutes. Here again, allow sufficient time to arrive at ringside unflustered. Pick up you armband and wait for the steward to call your class. Once in the ring, place yourself and your dog in the most advantageous position—it is not necessary to be first in line. If your dog is not a fast mover or is bothered by other dogs behind him, he is going to look incredibly bad while moving or turning to look at the dog following him. With a slow dog, the end or middle of the line is the best place. A fast-moving dog, of course, is going to look its best up front. When setting up your dog, stay in line. There is nothing more novice-looking or annoying to a judge than an exhibitor upstaging another exhibitor and ending up in the middle of the ring. The



SAGEBROOKE TIME TRAVELER sire: GCH CH Blue-Fantasy’s Rocket’s Red Glare “Rocket” dam: GCH CH Sagebrooke Till The End Of Time “Tillie” Travis’ showring debut was in Florida December 2021...at 10 months of age, he was awarded WD and BOW for a 5 point major under Daryl Vice at the prestigious AKC National Championship Dog Show breeder/owner/handled!

GCH CH SAGEBROOKE A HAWKEYE AT KESAR sire: GCH CH Exmoor’s Engage dam: CH Sagebrooke It’s All In The Timing Finished his AKC Championship at 10 months Finished his Grand Championship at 11 months In 2021, from the Puppy Class, Ranked #13 All Breed * , #14 Breed ** A huge THANK YOU to Jim Hupp (Exmoor) & Sherri Spieth (Blue-Fantasy) for sharing their boys with Sagebrooke as well as Barb Bedsted for her love, care and presentation of Hawkeye. TRAVIS


Bred by Michelle “Muffin” Chaney • Sagebrooke Yorkshire Terriers

Owner Handled by Barbara Bedsted • Kesar Kennel • Stillwater, MN • b.bedsted@att.net



A breeder searching for just the right combination of genes to produce that elusive “perfect dog” often overlooks a major factor—temperament. What good is the most beautiful specimen if you can’t stand to live with him, or he won’t show or work, or he attacks everything in sight, including you? Bearing in mind that the ideal tempera- ment in one breed may include traits that are totally undesirable in another, it is necessary to have a thorough understanding of a breed’s original purpose or function before temperament can be adequately assessed. Furthermore, genetically transmitted temper- ament can be profoundly influenced by environment. Since a pup’s basic personality is formed by the time he is four months old, and can thereafter be only slightly modified, breeders have a serious responsibility to their pups and to prospective owners to ensure that as much care is taken with mental and emotional soundness as with physical attributes. Fortunately, we have at our disposal some excellent tools for objectively assessing temperament in young pups and for modifying any traits found to be less than ideal. The first of these tools is puppy temperament testing, also referred to as aptitude testing or personality profiles. Per- formed at the age of seven weeks, before acquired learning has had a chance for impact, testing shows which basic personality traits the pup has inherited, such as dominance or submissiveness and independence or social attraction to humans. It is critically impor- tant to remember that how a pup relates to his dam and littermates is not necessarily an indication of his reactions to people, new situ- ations, or strange sights and sounds. To obtain the most objective results possible, pups are tested individually, away from the dam and littermates. We have seen some little bullies go to pieces at this point, before testing has even begun. Without the rest of the crew to impress or to back him up, he is suddenly just a tiny fella in a great big world! Testing is done in an area that is new to the pups, relatively free from distractions, and preferably by someone who is not familiar to the pups. Many a pup that comes readily, tail a-wagging to whomever feeds and plays with him, will show distrust of (or complete lack of interest in) a stranger. Without some special attention to this trait, how can you expect this little guy to tolerate strange judges going over him or really “ask for it” in the show ring? It must be remembered that puppy temperament testing is not a “pass/fail” situation, nor is it an absolute determination of what the pup will be like for the rest of his life. Training and experience have a major impact on a pup between seven and sixteen weeks. Testing, however, can show where you stand at the threshold, in which direction to head to come closer to the ideal, or which han- dling methods to employ in working with a certain personality type. Tests are usually graded on a scale ranging from one extreme to another, aggression to shyness, for instance. By observing and recording a pup’s reaction to a few simple exercises, you can get a very accurate indication of his inherited orientation to life. For- tunately, the majority of pups fall somewhere in the middle of the range. (The skills necessary to handle the extremes are beyond the scope of most of us!) Perfect objectivity in testing is impossible to obtain, since all pups will not react “exactly” in one of five or six different ways. We have learned to pick the most closely described response or even to give the pup a “half-score” if he incorporates elements of two related responses. Remember, it is not a final score you’re after; it is simply a profile of the pup’s range of behavioral and emotional responses. It certainly can be argued that experienced breeders can accu- rately assess temperament in their pups. However, what is “spunky” to one person might be “downright mean” to another. Puppy tests offer the happy alternative through a common language and a more objective approach.

Beauty IS AS



(A version of this article originally appeared in the YTCA Heritage, 1970 through 1983, which was published and copyrighted by the YTCA in 1985.)



We lost a big part of Team Hoshi, we’ll miss you Ken Lambert

Handled by Trish Kulessa | Owned by Tammy Neisius Western Wishes | 5345 Coleman Ranch Road | Tolar, Texas 76476







if-you-can,” for instance, consists of the owner trying to run away from the pup. (Caution: With very small breeds, make sure you don’t succeed in getting too far away or the pup may feel abandoned and become very insecure.) The pup’s having to keep track of you reinforces the idea that you are the leader and he is the fol- lower, and it establishes a lifelong pattern of attentiveness. (It’s also great exercise for you and the pup!) Every time the pup “catches” you, he gets lots of praise, which further boosts his confidence. If you have been diligent during this period, the twelve to sixteen week “age of mischief ” will not be overly taxing. Dur- ing this time, the pup’s flight instinct begins to develop, and he realizes that he is not literally attached to you. He may try to assert his own dominance, test to see if you really mean what you say, or run away and ignore you. Left to his own devices, a pup of this age can get into plenty of trouble, so he should be confined when not strictly supervised. This is the time to begin more serious training. Sessions can be longer and the subject matter more complicated, but training should still be free from major distractions. Regular training sessions of short duration will prove more valuable than sporadic ones that seem, to the pup, to last forever. For better or worse, the pup’s basic per- sonality is now set. If there is still room for improvement, keep working. Although at this point, only slight modifications can be made. It is a breeder’s burden, and also his great joy, to develop the skills necessary to identify inherited temperament traits and to use all the knowledge at his disposal to enhance or modify that personality. That “perfect dog” will be all the more beautiful with his confidence, common sense, and good manners! REFERENCES Bartlett, Melissa, “Puppy Personality Pro- file.” Off-Lead, March, 1982. Campbell, William E. Behavior Problems in Dogs. American Veterinary Publications, 1975. Fox, Dr. Michael W., Understanding Your Dog. Conrad, McCann, Geoghegan, 1972. O ’ Kelley, Joyce, “Super Dogs Are Made, Not Born.” Off-Lead, July-October, 1978. Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., The New knowl- edge of Dog Behavior. Howell, 1963.

and vacuum cleaners should be introduced gradually, and the pup should be allowed to explore larger areas for brief periods. Toward the end of this period, individual attention sessions should begin with each pup. Gentle handling sessions, brushing, foot caressing, and mouth examinations let the pup know that he’s more than just a member of a pack—he’s also a separate, special little entity. Up to this time, the pup has focused primarily on learning to be a dog, and most of his actions have been prompted by instinct. By the age of seven weeks, his brain has fully matured. He now has the learning capacity of an adult dog—if not the attention span. From seven to twelve weeks, then, a conscientious breeder is exceedingly busy! At no other time in a pup’s life will his ability be greater to form bonds of affection and devotion, and events will now permanently affect his atti- tude toward humans and his willingness to accept their direction. What the pup learns during this time will become a basic part of his personality and will stay with him for life. It is particularly important at the beginning of this period to avoid painful or frightening experiences, as the pup can now remember fear. If something totally beyond your control should occur to scare a pup, do not over-react. Make as little of the incident as possible. Laugh if you can, give the pup a kiss and a hug, and go immediately on to something a little safer. Convey to the pup the idea that lots of things might be scary to little guys, but when he grows up, he’ll be a lot braver. His socialization must begin in ear- nest, however, and supervised play can be provided with children, other adults, and animals other than his dam and litter- mates. He should be taken for walks and short car rides and encouraged to explore new sights, sounds, and smells. Gentle but consistent discipline will help to com- plete his housetraining, and the pup can be introduced to simple obedience com- mands such as sit, down, stand, and stay. It is imperative to teach the pup to come when called before the end of this period, while he is still in the “following” stage. Lead training can also be easily accom- plished now; loose leads only. The pup’s pack instinct develops as he matures, and it must be established in his mind early on that humans are the pack leaders. Much of a pup’s training at this stage can be accom- plished in the form of games. “Catch-me-

The usefulness is limited, though, unless careful consideration is given to another valuable tool that is available to breeders; knowledge of the critical periods of puppy development. A puppy which at seven weeks shows an inherited tendency for outgoingness, resilience, and poise can easily become a cringing, fearful little soul by sixteen weeks if his mental and emo- tional well-being are not carefully nur- tured and encouraged. Research over the last 40 years has served to accentuate the awesome responsibility that a breeder has to ensure that his or her pups go out into the world displaying the optimum tem- perament characteristics of their breed. Attention from birth to these critical peri- ods of development—which represent the average timeframe for the average pup— will enable a pup to achieve the maximum potential from his inherited genes and breed instincts. During the neonatal period, from birth to three weeks, the pup is mentally and emotionally insulated from his environ- ment. His needs are physical; food, sleep, warmth, and massage. He will respond to physical stimuli such as touching, being cold or hot, or having a gas pain. One of the more delicate times for the psyche of the dog is from three to four weeks. His circuits are now connected, so to speak, and all of his senses are working. Suddenly, he can see and hear, taste and smell. Care should be taken that his first impressions are pleasant ones! Don’t try to wean him, remove him from the litter, or alter his environment. Give him time to adjust gradually to all of this new input. From four to seven weeks, the pup’s main concern is learning his canine iden- tity. Social order in the litter is established and the pup learns appropriate “doggie” greeting patterns, play gestures, and domi- nant and submissive postures. It is essential that the dam be there to play with, super- vise, and discipline or reassure the pups. Weaning can be accomplished during this time, but pups that are totally removed from their mother before the end of this period are apt to be noisy and nervous their whole lives. Housetraining can be started now by the simple expedient of enlarging the pup’s area. On his own, he will begin to move away from the nest to urinate and defecate, and his natural instinct for clean- liness can be easily encouraged to become a habit for the rest of his life. Normal house- hold noises such as telephones, doorbells,



Turyanne’s goal was and is to have a line of expressive Yorkshire Terriers with soundness and style. We have adhered as close as possible to the Stan- dard requirements, which are: “QUALITY - TEXTURE & QUANTITY OF A DARK STEEL BLUE COAT ARE OF PRIME IMPORTANCE”. Outstanding breed type and balance with lovely heads and correct ear sets are a prime goal also. When discussing type and soundness, it is helpful to define the two terms: TYPE: Can be considered to be the combination of the distinguishing fea- tures which give each breed it's individuality... SOUNDNESS: Is that state of mental and physical health when all the or- gans and faculties are complete and functioning normally, each in its rightful relation to one another. All dogs should have good fronts and rears and top lines, unless the charac- teristic of the breed calls for something different... Balance: Of all of this, I don't believe that type, soundness, and balance can be separated or debated as an either/or situation... A quote from Ric Beau- champ, “If we cannot look at a dog and instantly recognize, by its general look and attitude, that it has the style and bearing appropriate to that breed - then it is not truly that breed. In spite of what a pedigree and registration certifi- cate might say. The dog lacks one of the most significant characteristics that distinguishes it from all other breeds.” Dogs come in all sizes in each breed and still remain within the standard for size, however if you are looking across the ring at a four-pound dog, you want all the parts to fit and not have the head of a six-or seven-pound dog on a four-pound dog’s body, nor do you want the length of back or the legs of a six- or seven-pound dog to be on the four-pound dog. In other words, balance is the same for each size dog, whether it is four- pounds or six-pounds, or ninety-pounds. All of the parts starting with the head, down the neck, to the length of the back, to the length of the legs to be in proportion to that particular dog. For example, a short-legged, long body, no neck, large headed Yorkie does not have type or balance... TYPE: is the characteristic of each breed that sets them apart from one to another; balance and soundness are required in all dogs regardless of size... In the forty years that I have been in the breed, I have seen many different types of Yorkies, however in the past few years I feel we are really losing type and the new judges coming into the breed are finding it very difficult to be consistent in their placements when judging the Yorkshire Terrier. Kathleen Kolbert SHOWSIGHT MAGAZINE, AUGUST 2021 | 365 YORKSHIRE TERRIER

CH Ozmillion Playboy Adam Gidget Lily Father Mother Daughter CHWindsor Gayelyn Gilded Lily CH Gayelyn Gilded Lily

Lily CH Gayelyn Gilded Lily 1st Veteran Bitch Thank you Judge Mr. James Nickerson

Gilly CH Rembrandt’s Gilly of Turyanne with Sara Lawrence



Miss Hellerman & Jane Forsythe

CH Turyanne Always Love Goodie Two Shoes Goody

CH Lord Pickwick of Oxford My first Yorkie Pickwick


CH Rembrandt’s Gilly of Turyanne Gilly Noah

CH Fenway’s ’N’ Turyanne Stealing Home



T his little knight of the carpet is eminently an English pro- duction, or manufacture, if we may us the term, and occupies a most prominent position in the canine world of being considered by many the handsomest of all long-haired Terriers, and has been appropriately termed by one writer “ the little Yorkshire swell.” The charming, aristocratic little dog we now know at the Yorkshire Terrier has been identified as such for but a comparatively short period, the Kennel Club adopting this nomenclature in their Stud Book in 1886. Prior to this date the name had been hanging about him for some few years, because the titles of rough, broken-haired, or Scotch terrier, under which he was first known, were most misleading.. During the early days of dog shows the classes in which he competed included ter- riers of almost any variety, from the cross- bred mongrel to the Dandie Dinmont, the Skye terrier, and the Bedlington. It was not uncommon sight to see wire- haired Fox terriers, with others of a silkier coat under the one common heading of “ Rough or Broken-Haired Terriers. As a fact, a Broken-Haired Terrier should have been altogether a short-coated dog.. The Yorkshire is a long coated to a a greater extent than any other variety of the terrier, nor was the title Scotch terrier, by which he was most frequently known, at all adaptable to him. How the name of “Scotch terrier” became attached to a dog which so thor-

oughly had its home in Yorkshire and Lan- cashire is somewhat difficult to determine, if it can be determined at all, because it was noted that the first of them originally came from Scotland, where they had been acci- dentally produced from a cross between the silky-coated Skye terrier (the Clydesdale) and the black and tan terrier. One could scarcely expect that a pretty dog, partaking in a degree after both its par- ents, could be produced from a first cross between a smooth-coated dog, and a long- coated bitch or vice versa. Maybe, two or three animals so bred had been brought by some of the Paisley weav- ers into Yorkshire. There, suitably admired, took pains to perpetuate the strain. There appears to be something feasible and practi- cal in this part of the history. Originally the Yorkshire was a bigger dog than he is to-day, specimens from 10 pounds to 14 pounds were not at all uncom- mon, so repeatedly classes had been provid- ed for them in two sections – dogs over 8 pounds and dogs under that weight. A Yorkshire Terrier Club was formed in 1886 and the comparatively few peo- ple keep the variety. The Club however issued a description, which is as follows: GENERAL APPEARANCE: The general appearance should be that of a long-coated pet dog, the coat hanging quite straight and evenly down each side, a parting extending from the nose to the end of the tail. The animal should be very compact and neat, the carriage being very sprightly, bearing an important air. Although the frame is hidden

Mrs. M. A. Foster’s immortal Huddsersfield Ben, bred by W. Eastwood of Huddersfield was born in 1865 and died in 1871. He is the progenitor of all our best Yorkshire Terriers, and will ever remain the greatest pillar of the breed.

Huddersfield Ben (1865-1871); bred by Mr. W. Eastwood


beneath a mantle of hair, the general outline should be such as to suggest the existence of vigorous and well-proportioned body. HEAD: Should be rather small and flat, not too prominent or round in the skull, rather broad at the muzzle, a perfectly black nose, the hair on the muzzle very long, which should be a rich deep tan, not sooty or grey. Under the chin, long hair, and about the same colour as the center of the head, which should be a bright, golden tan, and not on any account intermingled with dark or sooty hairs. Hair on the sides of the head should be very long, and a few shades deeper tan than the center of the head, especially about the ear-roots. EYES: Medium in size, dark in colour, hav- ing a sharp, intelligent expression, and placed so as to look directly forward; they should not be prominent. The edges of the eye lids should also be of a dark colour. EARS: Cut or uncut, if cut, quite erect, if not cut, to be small V – shaped and carried semi- erect, covered with short hair, colour to be a deep dark tan. MOUTH: Good even mouth,, teeth as sound as possible. A dog having lost a tooth or two through accident, not the least objectionable, providing the jaws are even. BODY: Very compact and a good loin, and level on the top of the back. COAT: The hair as long and straight as possi- ble (not wavy), which should be glossy, like silk (not woolly), colour, a bright steel blue, extend- ing from the back of the head to the root of the tail, and on no account intermingled the with fawn, light, or dark hairs. LEGS: Quite straight, which should be of a bright golden tan, and well covered with hair a few shades lighter at the ends than at the roots. FEET: As round as possible, toe nails black. TAIL: Cut to a medium length, with plenty of hair, darker blue in colour than the rest of the body, especially at the end of the tail, and car- ried a little higher than the level of the back. WEIGHT: Divided into two classes, viz; under five pounds and over five pounds, but not to exceed 12 pounds. REFERENCES P.H. Coombs and M.A. Foster; Photos courtesy of The Yorkshire Terrier by S. Jessop

Overdale Marquis

Ch. Prince Regent of Soham; owned by Lady E. Windham Dawson. (Photo by W. Guiver)

Hopwood Camellia; owned by Miss E. Martin. (Photo by Morath’s Studios, Liverpool)

Dan Dee of Comer (age 12 months); owned by Mrs. B. P. Holliday. (Photo by J. Parkes Foy)

Peona of Phylreyne; owned by Mrs. F. C. Raine. (Photo by Philip Pershke, Ltd.)

Ch. Spendour of Invincia; owned by Mrs. A. Swan.

Ch. Wee Don of Atherleigh; owned by Mr. W. Hayes. (Photo by Kay and Foley Bolton)

Ch. Starlight; owned by Mrs. V. Hargreaves.

Ch. Kelsbro’ Minnie; owned by Mr. H. Cross. (Painting by Taylor)

Ch. Bradford Harry; owned by Mr. P. H. Coombs, Maine.

Ch. Vemair Parkview Preview; owned by Mrs. V. M. Mair. (Photo by Taylor Sunderland)




A s a breeder since 1963, and a judge since 1979, I hope I can enlighten those who now judge, and those who hope to judge, this very controversial breed. As I go through my judging pro- cedure I hope to make you aware of the breed characteristics that set this breed apart from the other toy breeds. These are coat, color and texture. The standard currently in use was approved on April 12 th , 1966. In my opinion it is a very good Standard. Sadly, many of the Yorkshire Terriers exhibited today do not come close to meeting the criteria described therein. I will now relate step by step, the pro- cedure I follow when judging my breed. Having assembled the class I have the exhibits stand so that I may take a first look at each dog’s outline. This is each exhibits first chance to say to me, “I am truly typical of my breed.” I then take them around the ring in order to observe the ability of each to maintain the correct outline and overall balance when moving. Additionally, I am looking for that confident and self- important air so important to the breed. I am now ready to examine each exhibit on the table. As I do so, I first check the side view of the dog for cor- rect proportions. A four-pound head on a six-pound dog is not acceptable. Next, go around to the front of the dog and look at them as they face you. Extend your hand and then approach. For the most part Yorkie’s do not mind being examined, however every once in a while one may go for you. Please bear this in mind when approaching each exhibit. I take the dog’s head in my hands and look for a rather flat head. The skull should not be too prominent or round. Similarly, the muzzle should not be overly long. The eyes should be of medium size and not overly prominent. Dark in color and sparkling with a sharp intellident expression. Oval shaped eyes are preferred, not round eyes. A large round eye is generally found with a too round a skull. A “small beady eye” is highly undesirable and detracts from expression. Ears are small and set high on the skull and not too far apart.

Head color is darker at the roots than in the middle, shading to still lighter tan at the tips. You need to fan out the head hair to see the shading. There should be no sooty or black hair intermingled with any of the tan. Puppies are born black and tan are normally darker in col- or, showing an intermingling of black hair in the tan until they matured. Richness of tan on the head and legs are of prime importance in all adult dogs. Scissors bite preferred, size of teeth in direct proportion to size of dog. Lips, nose and eye rims should always be black. Next, I run my hands down to check the length of neck and lay back of shoul- ders, follow down the leg to make sure they are not out at the elbows, forelegs are straight. Moving to the side, run my hands over the back to check for a level topline and a proper tail set. While at the side, I check coat color and texture and look for running tan. Running tan is when the tan extends down on the back of the neck or above the elbows on the forelegs and above the stifles on the hind legs. Moving to the rear I check for sound- ness of the rear legs, proper angulation, hind legs are straight when viewed from behind, stifles are moderately bent when viewed from the side. An over angulated dog will single tract while moving. A straight stifle or straight hock will cause a dog to be high in the rear. Placing my hands on the shoulders and drawing them back to the rear I can evaluate the body. We want a compact, well-bodied animal with a good spring of rib and adequate depth of brisket and fore chest. Overly long bodies or exag- gerated short ones are both undesir- able. The ideal spring of rib is oval in shape with sufficient depth to meet the elbows. At this point I have the dogs move in a triangle. My reason for a triangle is that I can see the rear going, the topline going across and the front as it returns, and when they stop in front of me I can see expression. When they are all back in line I like to stand in the middle of the ring and look at each dog carefully. I compare individual dog to the breed standard. Then I compare the dogs to each other

and evaluate which individual dog best exemplifies the breed standard. Moving them all together again I make my placements.Keywords here are breed type and balance. Example: AYorkshire Terrier that has a pretty head and face furnishing to the floor are truly wonderful when they are totally in keeping with the rest of the animal,with a good front, sound rear and level topline. Otherwise, all you have is a pretty head, lacking breed type. A Yorkshire Terrier with a sensation- al coat that moves well and has a poor head, is simply a sound well-coated ani- mal lacking true breed type. Any Yorkshire Terrier, which is over- done in any department, has lost its over- all balance and its true Breed Type. ABOUT THE AUTHOR I was born and educated in Con- necticut and hold a Master’s Degree in Finance. Retired as a Bank Officer after 30 years of service. My involve- ment with breeding and showing began in 1963 after I was given a Champion Yorkshire Terrier for my birthday. This was not my first experience with dogs. My father raised Norwich Terriers and Smooth Fox Terriers. As an exhibitor and breeder of York- shire Terriers, Old English Sheepdogs, Pekingese and Shih Tzu. We have very successfully campaigned to Best In Shows. Winning World Champion with two of my Yorkshire Terriers. At the present time from Turyanne AKC reg. lines the following Breeders Casino, Gayelyn, Rembrandt’s, High Hopes, Fenway’s, Charizma, over 250 American Champion. In Europe and additional 30-40. Approved to Judge in 1979 and at the present time I judge Best In Show, the Toy Group and Non-Sporting Group and Junior’s. Active Member in the following Dog Clubs: Yorkshire Ter- rier Club of America, Judges Educa- tion, past treasurer. Yorkshire Terrier Club of Greater New York, Vice Presi- dent, Assistant Show Chairman. Past Treasurer. Naugatuck Vally Kennel Club, President, and past Treasurer. Progressive Dog Club of Greater New York, President.



YORKSHIRE TERRIER 1. Where do you live? What do you do “outside” of dogs? 2. How many years in Yorkies? Showing? Judging? Breeding? 3. What, in your opinion, is the secret to a successful breeding program? 4. Being #10 out of 192 AKC breeds is a pretty large accomplishment for a small dog. To what do you attribute this popularity?

coat conditioning are critical to maintain the color, as not all diets have sufficient copper and l-tyrosine for the pigment. It’s frustrating when you are showing a dog that is naturally dark to come across judges who are afraid to put it up since they think it’s too dark or might be dyed. Or you have the judges with cataracts that cannot see the coat is blue, as to them it looks black because they cannot see the shading. It’s tough to find a sire who is naturally dark, as so many dogs in the ring are colored. If we were to revise our standard to to allow any shade of blue, but give preference to the darker blue, it would certainly make a difference. When I started in dogs, the judges had alcohol on the table to test for color, but many judges just accept the added color. At times I feel judges place more empha- sis on grooming than the quality of the dog under the coat. Is the Yorkie’s popularity an advantage in the Toy group? I don’t feel the Yorkie’s popularity matters, as judges seem to have a clear preference for Pekes and they are not anywhere near as popular. In my opinion, Yorkies are doing better in group as the quality of our breed has improved with time. My favorite dog show memory? My bitch Vixen, GCHS Rose- mark’s Saint Or Sinner, winning best of breed at the AKC National Dog Show five years ago. She was one of the three bitch specials Tonia Holibaugh was handling that year and all three won best of breed that year: Vixen the Yorkie, Adele the Maltese and Roxy the Lhasa Apso. I would love to see more meaningful DNA tests become avail- able for health issues. At this point, the only thing we are really able to test for is blindness, which is not a huge issue with our breed. I want to see more work done on the diseases that have a bigger impact on health and longevity. And please, just because you’ve had the DNA testing done, it does not mean your dog has no health issues, as the test covers none of the really big issues, such as PLE, liver shunt, Leggs-Calves-Perthes, etc. MARY INGERSOLL I live just north of Tam-

5. The only DQ in your Standard is for Color. How much trouble is it to attain, and keep, correct coat and coloration? 6. Is the Yorkie’s popularity an advantage in the Toy group? 7. What is your favorite dog show memory? 8. Is there anything else you’ d like to share about the breed? Please elaborate. ROSANNE FETT I live northeast of Dallas, Texas on an acreage. I work full time as a mortgage loan officer, and love to cook and bake. The Yorkies take up most of my free time. I got my first Yorkie as a pet 37 years ago and he convinced me that I loved this amazing breed and wanted to be involved. When my youngest daughter hit junior high in 1991, I finally had free time to do something for me, and bought my first show Yorkie. Like many other newbies to our sport, the bitch I bought was not show quality, but I was fortunate enough to breed to an outstand- ing dog and my first litter of Yorkies produced my first champion. I was hooked! I did not breed much at that point, but I loved having puppies and the challenge of breeding what I hoped would be the ideal dog, and in 2004, we bought some land and built a house with a dog room and dog runs so I could do this right. The secret to a successful breeding program? You have to be ruthlessly honest about the faults of your bitch and breed to the best possible sire who will correct those faults. If you can’t do this, then develop relationships with knowledgeable friends who will help you with decisions and listen to them. You can’t have one stud dog and assume he will produce the same with all of your bitch- es. As much as I love my Leo, I know he is not the best dog for one of my girls, but using one of his sons on that bitch produces outstanding puppies. What do I attribute to the breed’s popularity? Yorkies are amaz- ing companions, as they are incredibly intelligent, instinctive to the needs of their family, and full of love. Of course, it does not hurt that they are absolutely beautiful dogs. The only DQ in your Standard is for Color. How much trouble is it to attain, and keep, correct coat and coloration? As someone who started out with very light dogs, I can tell you it’s extremely difficult to attain that dark blue silk we so desire. I have learned a lot about what to look for: blue skin on the sides of the dog and a purple/blue cast to the tongue are essential for a blue dog. Diet and

pa, Florida in Trinity. I love to cook and also, given the opportunity, deep sea fish. I have been breeding and showing Yorkies since 2004. The secret to being a suc- cessful breeder? To begin with, you must know and understand the standard. A dog breeder, in my honest opinion, should be able to recite the standard for your breed by heart. If ever asked a question, they should know



Yorkshire Terrier Q& A

the answer from the breed standard. As a breeder, it is also impor- tant to understand the standard for your breed. Next, as a breeder, you should endeavor to produce as close to the standard as you possibly can. Your dogs should be genetical- ly tested for all things inherent to your breed so you are produc- ing healthy animals. It is also important to learn from your mis- takes and not repeat them. Once is a mistake, the second time is a decision. Being number ten in the AKC list, really doesn’t mean a lot to me. It just means that many Yorkies are being bred and registered. It does not speak to quality of the dogs at all. Yorkies are popular because first of all they are beautiful. They are also very smart and adaptable and can be easily trained to do just about anything. The color DQ is subject to individual interpretation. My dark steel blue may not be your dark steel blue. When I started in 2004, the dogs were much lighter, and no one seemed to care. Now you see many dogs that are nearly black in the ring. When breeding, it is important to know the pedigree and what is back there in color to try to achieve the right color. Then do not dilute it with lighter dogs. Is the breed’s popularity an advantage in the Toy Group? Cur- rently we have several amazing Specials out that are consistently winning in group. I do not attribute this to the breed popularity. I attribute it to the quality of the dogs in competition. My favorite dog show memory was several years at our Central Florida Yorkshire Terrier Specialty. Jonathan Chamberlin was our judge. He had just lined up his placements in the breed ring and one of the handlers, who had cancer, and has since passed, feinted in the ring. She was fine, just light headed. Jonathan took the microphone and said, “listen, we are all going to die and some of us might die in the show right, but NOT IN MY SHOW RING and on my watch. It brought a lot of laughter and levity to the crowd. I am very passionate about the Yorkie breed, its health and pres- ervation and producing the best I can. Lately I have become pas- sionate about mentoring newbies. We need more exhibitors. When you sell a show dog to a newbie, please sell them the best you have. Then please take them under your wing, help them gain confidence and become successful. Teach them what they need to know and encourage them. Remember, we were all new once. JACKIE KUK I breed and show Yorkshire Terriers under the prefix JaLa, along with my mom, Laura Vance. Togeth- er for over 10 years we have dedicated our lives to this breed that we both cherish so much. I couldn’t have done any of this without her. Together we strive to preserve the breed and produce Yorkshire Terriers that will help the breed for many generations to come. I live in Northern Indiana and work full time as a small animal veterinarian. Most of my free time is spent with my dogs in some capacity, or with my family. I attended my first show as an exhibitor in 2005 and had my first litter a year later. I took a break for several years during vet school, but am so happy to be back out in the ring. The secret to a successful breeding program? Two key rules. 1. Being honest with yourself. If you dismiss faults or health issues

in your own dogs, you are only fooling yourself. I always try to be more critical of our own dogs than I am of those owned by others. 2. Don’t compromise good structure and movement for a pretty face or coat. We were told years ago when we started to get the ‘cake’ (structure) right first and then work on the frosting (coat/head). This advice has served us well. What do I attribute the breed’s popularity? They are smart, loyal and tenacious little toy terriers with hearts of gold and mischief. Their personalities are second to none, and two is always better than one. They make wonderful companions and are very portable, which is good because they love to be with their people. How much trouble is it to attain, and keep, correct coat and col- oration? It can be very difficult to attain and keep, especially when first starting out. Mostly because it can be difficult to understand what correct coat and coloration actually are. I have found that if you focus on the correct shading of the tan, the correct blue color will follow, and therefore so will the texture. Correct color and tex- ture go hand in hand in this breed. Is the Yorkie’s popularity an advantage in the Toy group? I don’t believe a breed’s popularity helps it to place in the group ring. There are other factors that are able to provide an advantage though. My favorite dog show memory? My mom and I were at the Cleveland Crown Classic in 2011, with our first bred by champion, GCH JaLa’s Rile Me Up. It was our last show together, and he was up against the #1 Yorkshire Terrier All Systems the entire cluster. On the last day he was awarded Best of Breed under respected judge Mr. Fred Basset. Riley and I went on to win a Group 4 among a very large toy entry. We floated home, and that night his precious silk coat was cut off, in preparation for me to leave for vet school. Learning to show and breed Yorkshire Terriers is very challeng- ing, but that also means that the rewards are so great. My hope for the breed is to see and assist new exhibitors in any way I can. If you are interested in learning about the breed, grooming or showing and “They are smart, loyal and tenacious little toy terriers with hearts of gold and mischief. Their person- alities are second to none, and two is always better than one. They make won- derful companions and are very portable, which is good because they love to be with their people.”


Yorkshire Terrier Q& A

“If you are interested in showing Yorkies, know that the Yorkshire Terrier is a breed that requires patience! It takes a lot of time and dedication to grow and maintain a show coat. Some grow coat quickly and others may take years to grow a fully mature coat.”

you see me at a show, come on over. I love sharing this passion and can talk Yorkie all day. MICHELE SHUTE I live in Grand Prairie, Texas. I have been a high school math teacher for nine years. I also have a dog show bow business called Win- ning Topknots and often spend my evenings working on bow orders while catch- ing up on my favorite TV shows. My bows have been worn by many Yorkies in the show ring, including several top Yorkies over the past few years. Besides showing, my dogs also recently started modeling for Chewy.com . They have modeled apparel, diapers and belly bands, and first aid and recovery products for Chewy’s website. I got my first pet Yorkshire Terrier in 2004 and attended my first dog show as a spectator in 2007. I started going to dog shows occasionally over the next three years where I was able to watch and learn what was involved with showing Yorkies. In April 2010 I decided I wanted to start showing and began looking for a show puppy. By the end of that year, I got my first show Yorkie, and our first dog show together was in March 2011. I have now been showing and breeding Yorkies for 8 ½ years and have finished 13 Champions (12 Yorkies, one Long Coat Chihuahua) and five Grand Champions. I also have two Yorkies that have earned their Silver Grand Championships, won multiple group placements, and have been top ranked in breed and all-breed points. The secret to a successful breeding program? Breeding healthy, sound dogs should always be the first goal in any breeding program. I utilize the current health testing that is available and use those results to help guide some of my breeding decisions. After health and soundness, my first rule for breeding is to breed for the type I want to produce without sacrificing structure and movement. It is important to have a picture in your mind for what your ideal Yorkie would look like. How I interpret the standard and the look I like may not be what another Yorkie breeder likes, but the important thing is to know what YOU like and to always keep this picture in mind when selecting sires and evaluating puppies. You also have to know which faults you absolutely cannot accept and which faults you can live with, as there is no perfect puppy. Finally, never just breed to the convenient sire; breed to a sire that you feel could pro- duce the best possible puppies with your bitch. I am still fairly new

to breeding Yorkies and only produce one or two litters a year on average, but those are the rules I use to guide my breeding decisions. What do I attribute to the breed’s popularity? Yorkies are an intelligent, loving, energetic dog in a cute, little package. I think the first thing that attracted me to this small breed was its beauty! I loved the beautiful long, silky blue and tan coat and the topknot with a little red bow. Even when kept in a shorter hair trim, the Yorkshire Terrier is still adorable. As I became more familiar with Yorkies, I fell in love with their energetic and playful personalities. I think Yorkie owners love the small size and look of the Yorkie, as well as the larger-than-life personality of the breed. How much trouble is it to attain, and keep, correct coat and coloration? Half of our breed standard focuses on coat texture, color and color pattern. The color should be a dark steel blue (not jet black or silver) and a rich, shaded tan. The coat should be glossy, fine, and silky in texture. Obtaining correct color and texture is very difficult. The gold in a mature adult should be a rich, shaded tan. It should not be cream-colored, sooty with dark hairs, or red-brown. Many dark coats I see are either soft or coarse in texture instead of the correct silk, but I have seen several Yorkies with beautiful cor- rect silky, dark blue coats so it is possible! You also have to keep in mind, especially with bitches each heat cycle, that most Yorkies will get lighter each year as they age. I would not completely eliminate a nice Yorkie in my breeding program just because the color may be lighter that I’d prefer, but breeding toward getting consistent cor- rect color and texture is a goal to work toward. I do want to say that as much emphasis as our standard puts on coat color and texture, I hope that judges and Yorkie exhibitors remember that our breed should not only be a coat hanger. The Yorkshire Terrier is a toy ter- rier and should have breed type, high head carriage, attitude, and sound structure underneath that coat! Is the Yorkie’s popularity an advantage in the Toy group? I’m not sure that it is necessarily an advantage as I see other breeds place in the group more frequently, but in the past few years I have seen Yorkies placing in the group more consistently. When you have a Yorkie in specials coat, beautifully groomed and presented well, with good structure and movement, it is hard not to take notice in the group ring. One of my favorite memories was when I won Best in Special- ty show at the 2015 Bluebonnet Yorkshire Terrier Specialty with BISS GCHS CH Magic Country Fast and Fuogin (Phil). My sec- ond favorite memory was when Phil and I won Select Dog at the 2016 Westminster Dog Show among a fabulous entry of about 27 male specials. If you are interested in showing Yorkies, know that the York- shire Terrier is a breed that requires patience! It takes a lot of time and dedication to grow and maintain a show coat. Some grow coat quickly and others may take years to grow a fully mature coat. Yor- kies are such wonderful little dogs, but they can be quite stubborn at times so, again, patience is a must. Once you get started, I’m sure you’ll fall in love with the breed just as I have!




D espite our many foreign importations, and in the opinion of this breeder/ judge, the Yorkshire Terrier is still the prettiest and most elegant of the Toy dogs in the American show ring today. As this name implies, he is a prod- uct of the “County of Broad Acres”, and his origin dates from the advent of dog shows in the middle of the 19th century. They were first bred by the workingmen/fanciers of Leeds and Halifax, though they were not designat- ed as “Yorkshire Terriers” at the time. When first exhibited the breed had sev- eral designations some of which were “Scotch Terrier”, “Rough or Broken Haired Terrier”, “Broken-haired Scotch” and “Yorkshire Terrier” and the “Toy Terrier rough”. In 1860 at the Birmingham show, crude Yorkie prototypes were all exhib- ited as Skye Terriers. The following year at the Leeds show the same pro- genitors of the breed were shown as “Scotch Terriers”. By 1886 the breed had attained a greater state of perfection causing the Kennel Club to adopt the classification still in use today — “Yorkshire Terrier”. The present-day Yorkshire Terrier has several outstanding breed charac- teristics, the most important of which are coast, color and texture. Let us first discuss head color. To quote the standard: “All tan is darker at the roots than in the middle, shading to a still lighter tan at the tips”. In my opinion, the key word in this phrase is shading. Neither an Irish Red, nor a solid tan gold head is correct. This being said, it is true that some Yorkies, especially those with the requisite dark steel blue body coat, may take longer to clear in the head. However, even these specimens should have cleared by the

age of two. When in doubt by checking the color at the base of the ear may be helpful. Puppies should show signs of the head color that will be present at adulthood from the age of six months. Conversely, puppies six months or older having solid black on the back of the ear will very rarely clear in adult- hood. They will probably retain strong thumbprints and a very sooty head as mature specimens. Our Standard specifies one color for the body coat “Dark Steel Blue”. Further, “this Dark Steel Blue always lacks any approach to blackness”. In the ring today it is impossible to find entire entries possessing this much sought after color. This being the case what must be considered and deemed accept- able would be a distinct metallic color on a coat that is of a lustrous silky tex- ture. The colors should always reflect a certain amount of brilliance and light and never be drab and dull. The coat should also feel cool to the touch, even in great summer heat. Most importantly, remember that acceptable colors by range from above a pale gray to the highly desired dark steel blue, none of which bear the slightest resemblance to black patent leather. Remember Yorkshire Terriers do not have fur, they have hair just like you and I. This is a wash and wear dog and the hair should look like a person with clean long hair that sparkles and shines the texture will tell you when you have the real thing. Now we will discuss tails. These are to be docked to a medium length and, per the standard, to be carried slightly higher than the level of the back. How- ever, many Yorkies carry their tails in an upright position while gaiting, which is allowed. A tail that is carried in the “slightly higher” position mentioned in the standard should not be penalized,

nor should it be construed to indicate shyness in any form. A Yorkie with its’ tail flattened against its rump loses the breed’s proper outline. Such an exhibit also would be lacking the sparkle the Yorkie should display. As regards undocked tail carriages, in the author’s opinion such a tail should meet the same requirements as one that has been docked and as is noted above. Neither a long gay tail, nor a long squir- rel tail, are acceptable, the point being that the length of the tail should not alter the tail’s correct carriage. I will not delve deeply into structure in this article as it is my opinion that all dogs should have good fronts and rears, level top lines and good dentition unless otherwise specified by the indi- vidual breed’s standard. In the Yorkie balance is of particular importance, whether the exhibit is four or five pounds or six to seven pounds. Per the standard and by eye measure- ment proper balance is as noted here: Body Length: The forward point of the brisket to the after tip of the pelvis. Body Height: Top of the withers to the ground. Back: The five vertebrae between the withers and the loin, (ninth and thirteenth vertebrae inclusive). Backline: Also called the top line, from the neck to the base of tail, includ- ing withers, back, loin and croup. By Eye Measurements, this is a square dog the body height and body length all of equal measurements. The Standard does not describe eye measurement but it does say the following: The body is very compact, rather short, with a level back line and with the height at the shoulders the same as the rump. It also emphasizes that a well-balanced outline is very impor- tant and is obtained by having the


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