Miniature Schnauzer Breed Magazine features information, expert articles, and stunning photos from AKC judges, breeders, and owners.
MINIATURE SCHNAUZER
Let’s Talk Breed Education!
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Official Standard of the Miniature Schnauzer General Appearance: The Miniature Schnauzer is a robust, active dog of terrier type, resembling his larger cousin, the Standard Schnauzer, in general appearance, and of an alert, active disposition. Faults - Type - Toyishness, ranginess or coarseness. Size, Proportion, Substance: Size - From 12 to 14 inches. He is sturdily built, nearly square in proportion of body length to height with plenty of bone, and without any suggestion of toyishness. Disqualifications - Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches. Head: Eyes - Small, dark brown and deep-set. They are oval in appearance and keen in expression . Faults - Eyes light and/or large and prominent in appearance. Ears - When cropped, the ears are identical in shape and length, with pointed tips. They are in balance with the head and not exaggerated in length. They are set high on the skull and carried perpendicularly at the inner edges, with as little bell as possible along the outer edges. When uncropped, the ears are small and V-shaped, folding close to the skull. Head - strong and rectangular, its width diminishing slightly from ears to eyes, and again to the tip of the nose. The forehead is unwrinkled. The topskull is flat and fairly long. The foreface is parallel to the topskull, with a slight stop, and it is at least as long as the topskull. The muzzle is strong in proportion to the skull; it ends in a moderately blunt manner, with thick whiskers which accentuate the rectangular shape of the head. Faults - Head coarse and cheeky. The teeth meet in a scissors bite . That is, the upper front teeth overlap the lower front teeth in such a manner that the inner surface of the upper incisors barely touches the outer surface of the lower incisors when the mouth is closed. Faults - Bite - Undershot or overshot jaw. Level bite. Neck, Topline, Body: Neck - Strong and well arched, blending into the shoulders, and with the skin fitting tightly at the throat. Body - Short and deep, with the brisket extending at least to the elbows. Ribs are well sprung and deep, extending well back to a short loin. The underbody does not present a tucked up appearance at the flank. The backline is straight; it declines slightly from the withers to the base of the tail. The withers form the highest point of the body. The overall length from chest to buttock appears to equal the height at the withers. Faults - Chest too broad or shallow in brisket. Hollow or roach back. Tail - set high and carried erect. It is docked only long enough to be clearly visible over the backline of the body when the dog is in proper length of coat. A properly presented Miniature Schnauzer will have a docked tail as described; all others should be severely penalized. Fault - Tail set too low. Forequarters: Forelegs are straight and parallel when viewed from all sides. They have strong pasterns and good bone. They are separated by a fairly deep brisket which precludes a pinched front. The elbows are close, and the ribs spread gradually from the first rib so as to allow space for the elbows to move close to the body. Fault - Loose elbows. The sloping shoulders are muscled, yet flat and clean. They are well laid back, so that from the side the tips of the shoulder blades are in a nearly vertical line above the elbow. The tips of the blades are placed closely together. They slope forward and downward at an angulation which permits the maximum forward extension of the forelegs without binding or effort. Both the shoulder blades and upper
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arms are long, permitting depth of chest at the brisket. Feet short and round (cat feet) with thick, black pads. The toes are arched and compact. Hindquarters: The hindquarters have strong-muscled, slanting thighs. They are well bent at the stifles. There is sufficient angulation so that, in stance, the hocks extend beyond the tail. The hindquarters never appear overbuilt or higher than the shoulders. The rear pasterns are short and, in stance, perpendicular to the ground and, when viewed from the rear, are parallel to each other. Faults - Sickle hocks, cow hocks, open hocks or bowed hindquarters. Coat: Double, with hard, wiry, outer coat and close undercoat. The head, neck, ears, chest, tail, and body coat must be plucked. When in show condition, the body coat should be of sufficient length to determine texture. Close covering on neck, ears and skull. Furnishings are fairly thick but not silky. Faults - Coat too soft or too smooth and slick in appearance. Color: Allowed colors: salt and pepper, black and silver and solid black. All colors have uniform skin pigmentation, i.e. no white or pink skin patches shall appear anywhere on the dog and the nose must be solid black . Salt and Pepper - The typical salt and pepper color of the topcoat results from the combination of black and white banded hairs and solid black and white unbanded hairs, with the banded hairs predominating. Acceptable are all shades of salt and pepper, from the light to dark mixtures with tan shadings permissible in the banded or unbanded hair of the topcoat. In salt and pepper dogs, the salt and pepper mixture fades out to light gray or silver white in the eyebrows, whiskers, cheeks, under throat, inside ears, across chest, under tail, leg furnishings, and inside hind legs. It may or may not also fade out on the underbody. However, if so, the lighter underbody hair is not to rise higher on the sides of the body than the front elbows. Black and Silver - The black and silver generally follows the same pattern as the salt and pepper. The entire salt and pepper section must be black. The black color in the topcoat of the black and silver is a true rich color with black undercoat. The stripped portion is free from any fading or brown tinge and the underbody should be dark. Black - Black is the only solid color allowed. Ideally, the black color in the topcoat is a true rich glossy color with the undercoat being less intense, a soft matting shade of black. This is natural and should not be penalized in any way. The stripped portion is free from any fading or brown tinge. The scissored and clippered areas have lighter shades of black. A small white spot on the chest is permitted, as is an occasional single white hair elsewhere on the body. Disqualifications - Dogs not of an allowed color or white striping, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black. The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver dogs fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connecting blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification. Nose any color other than solid black.
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Gait: The trot is the gait at which movement is judged. When approaching, the forelegs, with elbows close to the body, move straight forward, neither too close nor too far apart. Going away, the hind legs are straight and travel in the same planes as the forelegs. Note - It is generally accepted that when a full trot is achieved, the rear legs continue to move in the same planes as the forelegs, but a very slight inward inclination will occur. It begins at the point of the shoulder in front and at the hip joint in the rear. Viewed from the front or rear, the legs are straight from these points to the pads. The degree of inward inclination is almost imperceptible in a Miniature Schnauzer that has correct movement. It does not justify moving close, toeing in, crossing, or moving out at the elbows. Viewed from the side, the forelegs have good reach, while the hind legs have strong drive, with good pickup of hocks. The feet turn neither inward nor outward. Faults - Single tracking, sidegaiting, paddling in front, or hackney action. Weak rear action. Temperament: The typical Miniature Schnauzer is alert and spirited, yet obedient to command. He is friendly, intelligent and willing to please. He should never be overaggressive or timid . Disqualifications: Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches. Dogs not of an allowed color or white striping, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black. The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connecting blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification. Nose any color other than solid black.
Approved July 10, 2012 Effective September 04, 2012
OFFICIAL STANDARD OF THE MINIATURE SCHNAUZER
Approved July 10, 2012 Effective September 04, 2012
G eneral Appearance: The Miniature Schnauzer is a robust, active dog of terrier type, resembling his larger cousin, the Standard Schnauzer, in gen- eral appearance, and of an alert, active disposition. Faults—Type, Toyishness, ranginess or coarseness. Size, Proportion, Substance: Size— From 12" to 14". He is sturdily built, nearly square in proportion of body length to height with plenty of bone, and without any suggestion of toyish- ness. Disqualifications—Dogs or bitch- es under 12" or over 14". Head: Eyes—Small, dark brown and deep-set. They are oval in appearance and keen in expression. Faults—Eyes light and/or large and prominent in appearance. Ears—When cropped, the ears are identical in shape and length, with pointed tips. They are in balance with the head and not exaggerated in length. They are set high on the skull and carried perpendicularly at the inner edges, with as little bell as possible along the outer edges. When uncropped, the ears are small and V-shaped, folding close to the skull. Head—strong and rectangular, its width diminishing slight- ly from ears to eyes, and again to the tip of the nose. The forehead is unwrinkled. The top skull is flat and fairly long. The foreface is parallel to the top skull, with a slight stop, and it is at least as long as the top skull. The muzzle is strong in proportion to the skull; it ends in a mod- erately blunt manner, with thick whis- kers which accentuate the rectangular shape of the head. Faults—Head coarse and cheeky. The teeth meet in a scissors bite. That is, the upper front teeth over- lap the lower front teeth in such a man- ner that the inner surface of the upper incisors barely touches the outer surface of the lower incisors when the mouth is closed. Faults—Bite; undershot or over- shot jaw. Level bite. Neck, Topline, Body: Neck—Strong and well arched, blending into the shoulders, and with the skin fitting tightly at the throat. Body—Short and deep, with the brisket extending at least to the elbows. Ribs are well sprung
and deep, extending well back to a short loin. The underbody does not present a tucked up appearance at the flank. The backline is straight; it declines slightly from the withers to the base of the tail. The withers form the highest point of the body. The overall length from chest to buttock appears to equal the height at the withers. Faults—Chest too broad or shallow in brisket. Hollow or roach back. Tail—Set high and carried erect. It is docked only long enough to be clearly visible over the backline of the body when the dog is in proper length of coat. A properly presented Miniature Schnauzer will have a docked tail as described; all others should be severely penalized. Fault—Tail set too low. Forequarters: Forelegs are straight and parallel when viewed from all sides. They have strong pasterns and good bone. They are separated by a fairly deep brisket which precludes a pinched front. The elbows are close, and the ribs spread gradually from the first rib so as to allow space for the elbows to move close to the body. Fault—Loose elbows. The sloping shoulders are muscled, yet flat and clean. They are well laid back, so that from the side the tips of the shoulder blades are in a nearly ver- tical line above the elbow. The tips of the blades are placed closely together. They slope forward and downward at an angulation which permits the maxi- mum forward extension of the forelegs without binding or effort. Both the shoulder blades and upper arms are long, permitting depth of chest at the brisket. Feet short and round (cat feet) with thick, black pads. The toes are arched and compact. Hindquarters: The hindquarters have strong-muscled, slanting thighs. They are well bent at the stifles. There is sufficient angulation so that, in stance, the hocks extend beyond the tail. The hindquarters never appear overbuilt or higher than the shoulders. The rear pas- terns are short and, in stance, perpen- dicular to the ground and, when viewed from the rear, are parallel to each other. Faults—Sickle hocks, cow hocks, open hocks or bowed hindquarters.
Coat: Double, with hard, wiry, outer coat and close undercoat. The head, neck, ears, chest, tail, and body coat must be plucked. When in show condition, the body coat should be of sufficient length to determine texture. Close covering on neck, ears and skull. Furnishings are fairly thick but not silky. Faults—Coat too soft or too smooth and slick in appearance. Color: Allowed colors: salt and pep- per, black and silver and solid black. All colors have uniform skin pigmentation, i.e. no white or pink skin patches shall appear anywhere on the dog and the nose must be solid black. Salt and Pep- per—The typical salt and pepper color of the topcoat results from the combi- nation of black and white banded hairs and solid black and white unbanded hairs, with the banded hairs predomi- nating. Acceptable are all shades of salt and pepper, from the light to dark mix- tures with tan shadings permissible in the banded or unbanded hair of the top- coat. In salt and pepper dogs, the salt and pepper mixture fades out to light gray or silver white in the eyebrows, whiskers, cheeks, under throat, inside ears, across chest, under tail, leg fur- nishings, and inside hind legs. It may or may not also fade out on the underbody. However, if so, the lighter underbody hair is not to rise higher on the sides of the body than the front elbows. Black and Silver—The black and silver gener- ally follows the same pattern as the salt and pepper. The entire salt and pepper section must be black. The black color in the topcoat of the black and silver is a true rich color with black undercoat. The stripped portion is free from any fading or brown tinge and the under- body should be dark. Black—Black is the only solid color allowed. Ideally, the black color in the topcoat is a true rich glossy color with the undercoat being less intense, a soft matting shade of black. This is natural and should not be penalized in any way. The stripped por- tion is free from any fading or brown tinge. The scissored and clippered areas have lighter shades of black. A small white spot on the chest is permitted,
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fairly long’, muzzle ‘at least as long as the top skull’, with clean flat cheeks, high set cropped ears or small and fold- ed if uncropped, scissors bite only. Neck well arched and blending into topline. Built right, he’ll have the good reach and strong drive of a square-built dog in profile, parallel tracking, true coming and going. SIZE Size is critical to maintain one of our differences from our larger cousin, the Standard Schnauzer. Miniature Schnau- zers must be disqualified from conformation competition if under 12" or over 14" at the withers, regardless of age or sex. Please measure if you question size—this is important. COAT Miniature Schnauzers in the conformation ring must have a coat that has been stripped or rolled to achieve the required hard, wiry texture of the outer coat, with a close undercoat. We don’t stipulate a length; it just needs to be sufficient to determine the characteristic hard wiry texture. The conformation dogs will be groomed to the nines for their elegant ‘Tuxedo’ look in the show ring; our compan- ion event dogs, retired conformation dogs and our pets are usually clippered, but they will maintain their distinctive look by using the same pattern as for the show ring. COLOR We have three allowed colors: Salt and Pepper, Black and Silver and solid Black, judged without preference among the three colors, black nose required. Salt and Pep- per refers to a mixture of black and white banded hairs and solid black and solid white unbanded hairs, with band- ed hairs predominating. All shades of salt & pepper from light to dark mixtures are permissible, undercoat color may vary. The black of a Black and Silver will be a true rich black and basically will follow the same pattern as the Salt and Pepper. Black, a rich glossy black with a softer black undercoat, is the only solid color allowed. A small white spot on the chest of a Black or a random single white hair elsewhere on the body is permitted. Judges must disqualify from conformation competition any Miniature Schnauzer not of an allowed color, or with white striping, patching or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for a small white spot permitted on the chest of the Black. SHAPE Square body, robust. SIZE Size is 12"–14". COAT & COLOR Hard and wiry. Three approved colors. Black nose. TEMPERAMENT Add an alert and intelligent temperament, an affection- ate personality full of life, he’s super smart and fun, some- times a little stubborn, mostly willing to please. From the beginning to the present day, our Miniature Schnauzers are the best!
as is an occasional single white hair elsewhere on the body. Disqualifications—Dogs not of an allowed color or white striping, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black. The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver dogs fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connect- ing blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification. Nose any color other than solid black. Gait: The trot is the gait at which movement is judged. When approaching, the forelegs, with elbows close to the body, move straight forward, neither too close nor too far apart. Going away, the hind legs are straight and travel in the same planes as the forelegs. Note: It is generally accepted that when a full trot is achieved, the rear legs continue to move in the same planes as the forelegs, but a very slight inward inclination will occur. It begins at the point of the shoulder in front and at the hip joint in the rear. Viewed from the front or rear, the legs are straight from these points to the pads. The degree of inward inclination is almost imperceptible in a Minia- ture Schnauzer that has correct movement. It does not jus- tify moving close, toeing in, crossing, or moving out at the elbows. Viewed from the side, the forelegs have good reach, while the hind legs have strong drive, with good pickup of hocks. The feet turn neither inward nor outward. Faults— Single tracking, side gaiting, paddling in front or hackney action. Weak rear action. Temperament: The typical Miniature Schnauzer is alert and spirited, yet obedient to command. He is friendly, intel- ligent and willing to please. He should never be overaggres- sive or timid. Disqualifications: Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches. Dogs not of an allowed color or white strip- ing, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black. The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connecting blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification. Nose any color other than solid black.
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of A BRIEF HISTORY THE MINIATURE SCHNAUZER
BY JOHN CONSTANTINE-AMODEI
T he Miniature Schnauzer was developed from the German farm dog. These dogs were multi-purpose dogs used as herders, guard dogs, ratters, and general-pur- pose dogs for the working family farm in Germany. It was from these dogs that all pinscher-type breeds were developed. One of the earliest books on dogs in Germany describes the “bentchur” as this dog was called: “The dog has a… snout covered with rough-haired whiskers… His body is short, and his tail is usually docked. The topcoat is not too long but wiry…” In 1852, C.F.H. Weiss used the term “pinscher” when translat- ing the English word “terrier.” I think this is a good reference to the similarity of these Ger- man pinscher breeds to many of the British terriers in form, function, and temperament. By 1876, we see evidence of these dogs developing into distinct breeds. Fitzinger, in 1876, discusses many types of pinschers that we see today; the Miniature Schnauzer or rauhen pintsch , the Affenpinscher or seiden pintsch , the German Pinscher or glatten pintsch , the Miniature Pinscher or kleinen pintsch , and the Standard Schnauzer or grossen pintsch . By 1884, we see the first standard for the Rauhhaarige Pinscher or Rough-haired Pin- scher. This standard really encompassed a variety of Schnauzers, as the size ranged from 8 to 22 pounds. In his book, Les Races des Chien , Count Henri van Bylandt in 1894 described these farm dogs as being seen in both smooth and wire-haired coats, and ranging in size from 11-3/4” to 19-1/2” (18-36 pounds). We know that the smaller ones were typically used as rat catch- ers. This is also the first reference to the term Schnauzer, which he used to describe the wire-haired, bearded pinschers. In Germany, a Pinscher Club was formed in 1895. The first studbook was subsequently published in 1902. It contained a total of 353 dogs being born as far back as 1880. There were four distinct breeds, registered as follows: 248 Standard Schnauzers, 14 Miniature Schnauzers, 8 German Pinschers, 83 Miniature Pinschers. The small, wire-haired pinschers were shown in separate classes; one for Affenpinschers and one for the smaller version of the wire-haired pinscher. In 1903, the studbook first reg- istered Affenpinschers separately from the other wire-haired pinschers. By 1910, the separa- tion was complete; the breeds were known as Affenpinschers and Miniature Schnauzers. The first Miniature Schnauzers were imported to the United States around 1924. Origi- nally, in the US, Miniature and Standard Schnauzers were considered the same breed and the Wire-Haired Pinscher Club of America was formed in 1925, encompassing both breeds. In 1926, the breed was renamed to Schnauzer and began competing in the Terrier Group. In 1933, the Schnauzer was separated into two breeds, Standard Schnauzer and Miniature Schnauzer. AKC required the parent club to split into separate clubs. Thus, the American Miniature Schnauzer Club and the Standard Schnauzer Club of America came into exis- tence. Both breeds continued to compete in the Terrier Group until 1945, when the Stan- dard Schnauzer was moved to the Working Group. In 1945, the “Sire of our Modern Breed” emerged, Ch. Dorem Display. “Display,” while maintaining the substance and strength of the breed, possessed an elegance and refined out- line that made him more competitive in the Terrier Group. He was our first all-breed Best in Show winner and our first and only Westminster Terrier Group winner—in 1947. Virtually all Miniature Schnauzers from show lines trace many (to hundreds of) lines back to Display.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE MINIATURE SCHNAUZER
Color has changed a bit over the years for Miniature Schnauzers. The first standard (Germany) in 1884 allowed a wide range of colors, which is understandable, being very early in the distinct development of the breed. As type started to become more established, we see in the 1907 German Standard more clarification and definition, “All salt-and-pepper color shades or similar bristly equal color mixtures, and solid black.” “Faults - All white, speckled, brindled, red, or bran colors.” In the 1934 American standard, we find the emergence of our modern-allowed colors: “The color should be pepper and salt or similar equal mixtures, light or dark, and including the ‘red pepper,’ pure black, and black and tan.” The “red pepper” refers to the tan shading still allowed today. The black and tan color will gradually modify to become today’s black and silver. Any solid color other than black has always been unacceptable in our American Standard. Early breeders were diligent in stan- dardizing the allowed colors, and today we never see any but the three allowed colors in litters from show lines. Over the past couple of decades, we have been fighting a battle (as have some other breeds) to stop colors—from ques- tionable breeding—from creeping into our breed (i.e., white, liver, chocolate, parti, etc.). We are in the midst of changing our standard to make any color other than our three allowed colors (salt & pepper, black & silver, and black) a disqualification. From their initial development, Miniature Schnauzers have always been cropped and docked. This was done to protect the dogs while performing their functions of ratting and such. Our grooming is also reminiscent of our Schnauzers’ function. The beard/eyebrows and longer leg hair also protected the dog from the rat’s bite. We believe cropping and docking, as well as
our grooming, are essential parts of the history, heritage, and essence of the Miniature Schnauzer and must be preserved. The Miniature Schnauzer in the US is shown in the Terrier Group—and always has been. I believe the Miniature Schnauzer, while not strictly a Terrier by definition since they are not of British descent, is truly a Terrier. They are the German version of a Terrier. From earlier in this article you have seen that our Schnauzers have the same func- tions of many of the British Terrier breeds (i.e., Wheatens, Kerries, etc.). They were working farm dogs and ratters. They are constructed similarly to many Terrier breeds and have the typical wire coat. Sometimes the designation of not being a “real” Terrier hurts us in Group competition, although there are some judges who recog- nize us as the Terrier that we are. As a matter of fact, we have actually gone Best in Show three times at the world’s preeminent Terrier Show, Montgomery County Kennel Club: In 1955 with Dody’s Demtri, and in 1968 and 1969 with Ch. Mankit’s to the Moon. Our top Best in Show winner in the breed is Ch. Regency’s Twist of Fate with 11 all- breed Bests in Show. Our dogs still demonstrate their “terrier” attributes today by par- ticipating in Earthdog tests and by taking care of all sorts of varmints around our homes. In addition, they also serve as excellent guard dogs. (No one gets past our doors without the diligent alarms from our Schnauzers, of course!) While not an ancient breed by any means, our origins do go back almost 200 years. Miniature Schnauzers continue to be a popular breed in the US and around the world. This is due in no small part to their playful, loyal, and friendly temperament. They are ideal housedogs and there is none better as a companion.
*Reference AMSC Educational Materials
ABOUT JOHN CONSTANTINE-AMODEI (KENNEL – ADAMIS)
John first became involved in dogs when he was a teenager in the 1970s, working several dogs through to their Obedience titles. In 1979, John purchased his first Miniature Schnauzer. During the 1980s, he apprenticed under Schnauzer handlers Sue Baines and Jackie Hicks (Irrenhaus). During that time, he developed his Schnauzer line based on the Irrenhaus dogs. John developed his Brussels Griffon line based on a black smooth French import combined with the American Norkus, Canadian Lorricbrook, and UK Marquant lines. John became involved in Boston Terriers through his husband, Lloyd Constantine-Amodei. While maintaining a full-time job, John has been breeding Schnauzers and Brussels Griffons for over 40 years. Over those years, he bred over 125 champions, including Group and Best in Show winners, and has handled over 150 champions. He bred the top Miniature Schnauzer in the United Kingdom
in 2003 and the first duel USA/United Kingdom champion. He has judged the American Brussels Griffon Association National Specialty and the American Miniature Schnauzer Club’s National Specialty twice. John has judged many regional specialties in the US, and National Specialties in Japan, China, Finland, Czech Republic, Hungary, Canada, Denmark, and Argentina. He is presently approved to judge half of the Hound Group, the Terrier, Working, Toy, and Non-Sporting Groups, as well as Best in Show. John has served as the President of the American Miniature Schnauzer Club from 2005 until 2013, and again from 2019 to 2021. Previously, he served as Vice President for five years and had been a Board Member for over 15 years as well as assuming many committee positions over the years. He is currently the Judge’s Education Coordinator. John is also a member of the Montgomery County Kennel Club. He is a founding member and President of the Liberty Brussels Griffon Club. He is a member of the Boston Terrier Club of America and the Tri-Angle Boston Terrier Club as well as several all-breed kennel clubs, including Hatboro Dog Club and Penn Treaty Kennel Club, for which he has served as Show Chairman.
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Some History of the THREE SCHNAUZER BREEDS By Sylvia Hammarstrom T here is lots of pub- lished information from around the world about the Schnauzers. Many good books and specialty breed-books. like the Poodle and are good herders like the Bouvier. As late as after the Second World War breeders in Europe manipu- lated the gene pool of the Schnauzers, introducing and improving traits we all admire today.
white is approved in all other countries worldwide, and if you travel internation- ally you will see them with big entries at the world shows etc. I have personally judged them in 5 di ff erent countries. I predict it’s only a matter of time before Americans will join the rest of the world in approving this very attractive little Schnauzer. Th e Giant Schnauzer also spread around the world from coming in unlimited colors all the way from white and fawn to gray and black, black and tan, et cetera. Clubs have united on 2 colors. the black and the pepper/salt. As late as 40 years ago there were black/tan champions here in the U.S.A. Th e black/silver is a very popular, beautiful color in the Giant breed. Many
Th e original breed, the Standard Schnau- zer, has been documented in paintings and statues as long ago as the fourteenth century. Th e Standard was a very use- ful dog, able to be a good ratter, herder and guard. He originated in Europe and eventually became known as a German breed, where he still is very popular as a family pet and guardian. In the late 19th century the miniature also appeared— many think from breeding the A ff enpin- scher to the Standard. Th ere were prob-
I worked in a Schnauzer kennel in Belgium in 1955 during my summer vacation. I was just a kid but I fell in love with the Standard Schnauzer and have had them ever since then. Mone De Pret who had van Stedeke Schnauzers was dedicated to saving the Schnauzers after World War II. She went to Berlin and set traps in the ruins to rescue as many as she could. From these dogs she got Alex von Mansard a magnificent pepper/ salt male, who I was told sired over 600
“The Standard has proved to be THE ONE BREED THAT HAS CHANGED THE LEAST.”
ably other smaller breeds involved. Many colors started appearing—the first two Miniatures registered in Germany were a pepper/salt and a white mini. Th e Giant Schnauzer also appeared in the latter part of the 19th century. Th ere are many opinions about his ancestors but most likely the Bouvier de Flanders, the Poodle and the Great Dane were used to bring up the size. Living with the Giants for many years as well as dogs from these other breeds I can safely say there definitely are many characteris- tics the breeds share. Th ey are definitely good guardians, the Giants love water
o ff spring. If you go back into any Stan- dard Schnauzer pedigree you will find Alex and other van Stedeke dogs. You will have to go back 65+ years. When I traveled with Mone De Pret to all the big shows in Germany, France, Switzerland and Italy almost all Minis and Standards were pepper/salt; the blacks and black/ silver minis came later. I did see some white minis, but they were not popular then. Times have changed and the white is now very popular in Europe and South America. Th e American Miniature Schnauzer club does not approve of the white Miniature. I’m not sure why. Th e
breeders especially in Europe are try- ing to get this variety approved again. Regardless what color you prefer or what texture coat you prefer the Schnauzer like most breeds keep improving and changing in details. After all—the Mini and the Giant are only a little over 100 years old as per records still available. Th at is a drop in a bucket in evolution. Th e Standard has proved to be the one breed that has changed the least. We all still love our Schnauzers for their beauty, intelligence, great sense of being guard- ians of house and home and perhaps most of all for their loyalty to his owner.
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Judging the MINIATURE SCHNAUZER BY WYOMA CLOUSS T he Miniature Schnauzer is one of just a few Terri- ers which did not originate from the British Isles. Developed in the Bavarian region of Germany in the late 1800s, the Miniature Schnauzer appears to be a
in our history, our standard carefully states that the muzzle is “at least as long as the topskull” which is “flat and fairly long”, ending in a “moderately blunt manner”. In practice, that means the muzzle should be approximately the same length as the topskull—neither shorter, nor exaggerated and too long. Balanced. Overall impression rectangular, strong but not blocky, nor too narrow. Parallel planes. Lift the eyebrows to make sure eyes are small, dark, oval, and deep-set. Think of dark walnut for color. Nose color must be solid black, any other color a DQ. Teeth—scissors bite only, look for six upper and lower incisors. To check bite, hold down the center of the beard below the teeth with your left hand, and with your right, use your forefinger and thumb on each side of the incisors to slide up the upper lip. Please do not go picking through the beard looking for side teeth. Ears cropped or uncropped is optional in our breed standard. If cropped, the ears should be balanced and set high, with the inside edges carried perpendicularly. When uncropped, the ears are small and V shaped, folding close to the skull, the tip pointing to the outside corner of the eye. Look for the “use of ears” on the ground, not on the table. The Schnauzer’s characteristic “down the nose” expression is emphasized by trimming the eyebrows into a sharp triangle. The beard will be trimmed and shaped to emphasize the rectangular shape of the head.
cross from smaller Standard Schnauzers and the “Monkey Pin- schers” (today’s Affenpinscher) common in that area. As with the British Terriers, the multipurpose Miniature Schnauzer was bred to be a ratter, with the bonus of being a watchdog and great family companion. The statement of General Appearance describes both his func- tion and his general appearance: “The Miniature Schnauzer is a robust, active dog of terrier type, resembling his larger cousin, the Standard Schnauzer, in general appearance, and of an alert, active disposition”. Note that our breed standard describes a gen- eral resemblance, not a miniature copy of the Standard Schnauzer. The three Schnauzers are three distinct breeds with three distinct breed standards. Watching Miniature Schnauzers walk into your ring, you should see distinctive dogs with hard wiry coats in one of three accepted colors. Look for the square, sturdy outline, rectangular head with clean cheeks, ears cropped or uncropped, strong well arched neck, short deep body, straight backline that declines slightly to a flat croup with a docked, erect tail, hard wiry coat. Get a first impres- sion of size, whether each dog is within the size range of 12 inches to 14 inches regardless of age or sex. Let the dogs move around the ring to loosen up, and start your examinations on the table to check. A quick word to the dog to make sure that he is paying attention, then a hand under his chin. You are looking for the head to be strong and rectangular with flat, clean cheeks. With the short-faced “Monkey Pinscher”/Affenpinscher
Overall body outline is square, measured from the forechest to buttocks, withers to the ground. Look for robust and sturdy, the brisket extends at least to the elbows, ribs well sprung and deep, short loin. Forequarters should be straight and parallel. Strong pas- terns. Good bone. Neck strong and well arched, blending into the shoulders. Sloping shoulders well laid back. Look for smooth transi- tion from the neck into the shoulders and topline, neck should not be short and stuffy. Viewed from the side the forelegs should be set “ As with the British Terriers, the multipurpose Miniature Schnauzer was bred to be a ratter, with the bonus of being a watchdog and great family companion.
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Judging the Miniature Schnauzer
BY WYOMA CLOUSS continued
“ALERT, SPIRITED, YET OBEDIENT TO COMMAND… FRIENDLY, INTELLIGENT AND WILLING TO PLEASE… never over aggressive or timid.”
exhibitor has “stage stripped” or “rolled” the coat, the most important thing about coat is that texture on the day should be hard & wiry. To extend the coat in show condition, varying amounts of undercoat may have been raked out. Coat on the head, neck, chest, tail, body must be plucked; the throat, cheeks, and bottom will be clip- pered; leg furnishings, beard, eyebrows will be scissored. Coat length is not stipulated, must be able to determine correct texture. Colors: Allowed colors are salt and pep- per, black and silver, solid black. black is the only solid color allowed; a small white spot on the chest, occasional white body hairs are permissible. The salt and pepper coat consists of a mixture of solid black, solid white, and banded hairs, varying from light to dark, tan shading permitted. The black and silver coat is the same bi-color pattern, except solid black where the salt & pepper would be, and with the difference that the underbody furnishings below the chest & ribcage should be dark. Judging: Watch for any white, even a narrow blaze, in colored area mid-forechest between the silvery white “bow tie” and lighter area of the throat—it’s a DQ. Judge movement at the trot. Look for the good reach and drive of a square-built dog. No mincing, no prancing, no chin tap- ping front or high kicking rear. True double tracking coming and going. At a full trot, there will be a slight inward inclination beginning at the shoulder in front, the hip in the rear, but no excuse for moving too close or crossing over. Temperament: “alert, spirited, yet obedi- ent to command… friendly, intelligent and willing to please… never over aggressive or timid.” Sparring (bringing dogs together to look at each other, pull themselves togeth- er) usually works best with the Specials class. Puppies and bitches may just look at each other since Miniature Schnauzers often live together peacefully at home. But show a Miniature Schnauzer a rat or other varmint and their Terrier function is alive and deadly!
back slightly but not so much that the ster- num (or chest bone) obviously protrudes. Short round (cat) feet. Hindquarters have strong muscled thighs… never overbuilt or higher than shoulders”. There should be ‘dog behind the tail’, a little ‘shelf.’ The backline is straight, sloping slightly to the base of the tail, flat croup—no roller coasters. Read carefully the breed standard on Tail: “Set high and carried erect. It (tail) is docked only long enough to be clearly visible over the backline of the body when dog is in proper length of coat. A properly presented Miniature Schnauzer will have a docked tail as described; all others should be severely penalized.” The American Min- iature Schnauzer Club is NOT one that says ‘whatever’ when it comes to tails. This is breed type, this is recognizing our breed. AKC expects judges to move and examine every entry—“This includes breeds that according to their breed standard tradition- ally have been cropped and/or docked and dogs entered which may have deviations from the breed standard.” So after moving and examining that dog with a deviation such as an undocked tail, we expect you to respect important attributes of breed type as written in our AKC breed standard. An undocked tail should be considered a seri- ous enough fault as to effectively remove that dog from conformation competition at an AKC show. We’re serious. Disqualify: Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches. (any age or sex), but also keep in mind, there is no preferred size, anything within that range is correct as long as you don’t see toyishness, ranginess or coarseness. Please measure if you have any question. It can be very difficult to visu- ally discern a critical 1/4 inches. It is much better to be certain rather than making the mistake of putting that perhaps oversize but otherwise lovely dog at the end of the line. Size is a DQ and we need your support in the ring. Coat: Double coat—hard wiry outer coat, close undercoat. Texture is the most important thing. As with some of the oth- er Terriers, it doesn’t matter whether the
Show grooming: Coats are either stage stripped out starting 8—10 wks prior to the first shows on a circuit, or rolled, worked constantly. Specials dogs usually have a rolled coat so they can stay in the ring, but the pattern of banding and texture quality may affect whether rolling coat works for an individual dog. Stripped out dogs are shown for maybe 6-10 weeks, the coat gradually “blows”, the tight Terrier jacket is lost, the dog goes home for several months to start all over again on coat work. It makes no sense for a judge to say something like ‘this coat is a little short, bring him back when he has more coat’. First, just check texture, as there is no minimum length required, and second, it’s doubtful you’ll see that dog again on that particular coat. Prior to the shows, the exhibitor will do the finish work—scissor furnishings, clipper throat, cheeks, ears, bottom, and tummy. Show day, the exhibitor will bathe the beard and furnishings, chalk the fur- nishings on salt and peppers and black and silvers, use a mousse or gel on the furnish- ings of the blacks, then brush out and blow dry, followed by a light hair spray. Groom- ing should be done with a relatively light touch—no cloud of flying chalk when the dog does the big shake. Show grooming of furnishings is a presentation issue—Min- iature Schnauzer exhibitors tend to be per- fectionists, wanting to bring you a dog with every hair in place in a tailored tuxedo look. Then it’s up to you—keep in mind: Square, sturdy outline Short, deep body
Straight backline, declines slightly Flat croup with a Docked erect tail Rectangular head, clean cheeks, scissors bite Ears cropped or not Hard wiry coat in Allowed colors only *DQ Nose must be solid black *DQ Size 12 inches—14 inches *DQ Correct reach and drive Alert temperament
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JUDGING THE MINIATURE SCHNAUZER A Breeder’s Viewpoint By Beverly Verna Part Terrier- Part Working Dog T hroughout the years I have given seminars to prospective judges and have talked privately to many judges regarding my breed. Most tell me withers to the point of the tail, but from the sternum to the butt, slightly behind the tail. So, his body is built more like his cousin, the working dog, however it is shorter in back. (Try to look at the under- line of a dog to help determine length of back.) It is these first descriptions of general Type and proportion that are most impor- tant and can be seen in the first line-up of the dogs. Type and proportion are of the utmost importance and is the first aspect of the dog to be judged, all else is secondary.
that it is a hard breed to judge, or at least harder than they had expected. I have been told that it is the description of a Minia- ture Schnauzer being part Terrier and part Working dog that confuses them the most. I hope this article will help in pointing out some of those major di ff erences. I would also like to point out areas of hair that can fool the eye and how to look at outlines di ff erently. I did not cover all the points in the Miniature Schnauzer Standard, only those that I feel need addressing at this time and for the sake of this article. For the purposes of this article, the Wire Fox Terrier shall be the example of “Terrier Type”. I realize that there are many Terrier breeds with completely di ff erent proportions and movement styles, however I do believe that the Wire Fox Terrier is what most people and the authors of our Breed Standard, think exemplifies the word “Terrier”. And of course the “Working Type” breed will be our cous- in, the Standard Schnauzer. Th e Miniature Schnauzer is part Work- ing and part Terrier in their type, move- ment and temperament. Th e first paragraph in our Standard states that the Miniature Schnauzer is robust and nearly square in proportion. Robust as in sturdily built, like the Work- ing Dog, deep chested with well sprung ribs, well muscled thighs and ample bone not at all “fine” in any respect. Not long in loin, but more square, “ Th e height at the withers is almost equal to the length of the body—of importance here is that the length of body is measured not from the
HEAD Shaped like a shoe box, rectangular, not square, with flat planes and a slight stop, a muzzle at least as long as the skull-like a Terrier, but, like the Working Dog, it should be strong and never fine. EYES Small, dark, almond shaped with a piercing look-like a Terrier. NECK Of general Terrier Type: Well arched, which means that it must be long enough to achieve that arch. Please do not be fooled by clever grooming in this area. It has become increasingly popular to hide a short or ewe neck with a mound of hair that is longer at the neck to shoulder tran- sition area than it is at the top of the neck and back. Th is trick makes the neck look longer and the back look shorter, so check that area for thicker longer hair. FOREQUARTERS More like the Working Dog: straight and strong with good bone HINDQUARTERS A bit of both types: they should be well muscled, like the Working Dog, however they should be wide in stance and well angulated, more in the style of the Terrier
Note how extra hair can change the overall look of the topline and proportion of the dog. In judging neck, look at the amount of space between the throat and shoulder assembly, that space and the shape of that space will tell you if the dog has the correct neck and set on. Also look at the thickness of the neck.
MOVEMENT Movement should be judged in two components, the first being the test of ‘soundness’, which to me is coming and going. Coming, straight forward with elbows close to the body, neither too close not too far apart, like the Working Dog. Going, hind legs straight, hocks lifting, with air to be seen between them, never
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too close, more like the Terrier. Th ey should not single track like the Working Dog. Let me add here that the scissored legs of a Miniature Schnauzer can both compli- ment a sound dog or disguise an unsound dog. Be mindful of excess hair on any part of the legs. After passing the test of soundness, I would then judge the side gait of the dog. Like the Working Dog, he should have good front reach and a strong rear drive- not at all like the stilted Terrier. Topline should stay level, head carried in a some- what up position, not straight up, this is not aerodynamic, but not totally down either. He should cover ground e ff ortlessly going from point A to point B in the least amount of footfalls. Don’t be confused by a dog that is run around the ring, going very fast, but using too many steps to get there. COAT & COLOR We only have three colors, Salt and Pepper, Black and Black and Silver. Th e Salt and Pepper coat can be many shades of Gray even a bit of cinnamon coloring is allowed. Salt and Pepper hair must be predominately (at least 51%) banded hair, the Salt and Pepper dog should never look like one solid color. In a “showable” coat, the coat is made up of a small amount of soft undercoat, which cannot be seen until you lift the wire hair. Th e majority of hair should be a hard wiry coat—this is very much a Terrier coat and as such, a soft coat should be heavily faulted, just as you would fault a soft coated Wire Fox Terrier. Th e furnishings are fairly thick and are not wiry like the Terrier, but scissored like the Standard Schnauzer. A bit of advice on Coat conditioning, which is di ff erent from the Terrier and the Working Dog. Miniature Schnauzer coats can be either section stripped (a pro- cess that takes 11 weeks until “showable” and all the wire hair is tight and crisp, or it can be rolled (a bit of hair stripped every week making the dog “showable” always) EXCEPT—all Miniature Schnau- zer coats are not suitable for rolling, some have too much undercoat and not enough wire hair, those coats are soft, not banded enough in the case of a Salt/Pepper and not up to the standards of a “showable” coat.
Dogs with that type of hair should be penalized. Th ose Miniature Schnauzers with proper thick wire hair can be rolled successfully and have the same look and feel of a ‘sectioned’ coat. Th e way in which a Miniature Schnauzers’ coat is stripped has absolutely no bearing on your judge- ment of coat quality, so if the exhibitor tells you that the coat is a bit softer because he is being rolled—that is no excuse. TEMPERAMENT Our Standard states that the Miniature Schnauzer is alert and spirited, like the Terrier, yet obedient, intelligent and will- ing to please, like the Working Dog. Never overly aggressive like some Terriers, but never timid. Because we compete in the Terrier group, I think it is important that the Miniature Schnauzer show his Terrier spirit. He should be lacking no amount of self confidence, exactly like the Ter- rier. We like to see our dogs ‘sparred’. You should expect males to ‘own their ground’, stacking and making the most of them- selves when facing o ff with another male. I would fault a dog who refused to do this with another dog and instead looked to his Handler for bait. As for females, we liked them sparred as well, however do not expect them all to respond like a male and do not fault them if they do not. We Breeders think that the Miniature Schnauzer is of course special. However, more importantly, he is unique in his make-up of these two groups of dogs, Th e Terrier Type and the Working Type. It is this uniqueness that we hold dear and would like to see every judge understand and judge accordingly.
Example of correct sidegait
Top: Correct angulation and stance. Bottom: Lack of angulation Note how extra hair behind the hock can make a striata in stifle dog look as if he had good rear angulation—to detect this, look at the outside line on the very end-it should be straight up and down,not sickle hocked.
BIO
Breeder, Exhibi- tor and Handler since 1972, breeding well over 150 Champions includ- ing the breeds’ all time top winning Miniature Schnauzer, CH Regen-
cy’s Twist of Fate, who is also the Top living sire of the breed. Th e Regency prefix can be found in top quality show dogs in most all countries. Honored to be named the AKC Terrier Breeder of the Year in 2006.
Moving, narrow but true. Hair left long at the hips and down the outside rear legs can be used to create the illusion of a wide rear. Instead of looking on the outside, look at the space left between the rear legs.
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